texd

<center><img src="http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0RADFGPMSnGbF0wb8zwEHu3GBR7nlkgKExdwrl3UmaNBwlrD09 dpMrfYJ4UaM4Ev!NW1hHd0gLam5*GRnBueUrGdP*r22NfFu92j Lo!*I7L4/P1001389.jpg?dc=4675432523723914880"></center><p>All,

It's been 2 years since I first posted my implementation of a roof rack on the hatchback. (To the best of my knowledge, mine was the first on this forum).

Below is the link to the original post with pics and instructions, but I got an email the other day that made me think I should post an update.

I made notes on the first post, and I don't intend to repeat all that, but here are my new notes:

1) The long railmount that I bought is the cheapest one (Copperhead $80) and doesn't have as much leverage to lock down on the fork with. Combine that with the fact that my bike does not have safety dropouts (the tabs at the bottom of the fork that force you to unscrew the quick release skewer a little to remove the wheel, and that had my bike come loose from the fork mount one time. (The fork mount did not come open, just my bike worked its way out.) That was on a long trip and I had not checked the bike's status along the way. It hasn't happened again. (The result was surprisingly minor -- 2 minor scratches on the drivers side of the car about where the gas cap would be if it were on the left instead of hte right. Since the bike was still strapped in at the rear wheel, it was fine. It may have taken a scratch or two itself, but I've laid it down too many times to notice any new scratches.)

If you have safety dropouts on your front fork (all but the most top of the line bikes will have them, and even many of those have them, forcing people like me who race (used to race) to file them off ourselves), you have nothing to worry about. If you don't have safety dropouts (or you've filed them off) then just go with the Steelhead ($109) or the Viper ($130) long rail mount.

That's the only real problem I've had.

2) In my original post, I noted that the hatch struts are strong enough to hold open with my bike on top. They still are, even now that I have a wheel fork and my front wheel up there (on the front rail)... most of the time. Sometimes, especially when the weather turns cold, they don't hold it open. If I knew the load capacity of the current struts and where to buy new ones that had a higher load capacity, I would. BTW, my bike weighs in at a hefty 23.5 lbs.

3) The feet of the rack can leave a footprint on your hatchback. I take my rack off except when I'm using it (once you've got it adjusted, it's easy to put on and take off) and I make sure the feet and the car are clean before I put the rack on. My footprints have gone away, except when my car gets dusty. Then the footprints seem to collect more dust than the rest of the car. I haven't waxed my car in a while, and I suspect that might take care of it. It might be worth finding something to put under the feet, such as a chamois, to fix it.

4) Lastly, my pedals don't touch the back window, but they come really close. If I rode with Look pedals instead of SPDs, they would likely touch. That could easily be solved by putting the bike off center so it's not directly above the peak of the window. (I'm planning to add a second mount anyway, so I'll be moving my mount off-center soon).

If I were to be starting from scratch, I would do it the same way all over again, with the exception of using a Steelhead or Viper mount. It sure beats the Audi rack (which puts your window in peril and has limited accessories at a high price), the Thule roof rack (I don't trust roof racks unless they have something to clamp around due to a personal experience which I've not heard repeated anywhere) or any trunk rack I've ever used. And it's better than paying $300-500 for a custom trailer hitch installation that lowers my ground clearance even further.

more pictures are available at <a href="http://www.msnusers.com/TT-Yakima/shoebox.msnw">http://www.msnusers.com/TT-Yakima/shoebox.msnw</a>

Tex

PS I don't read the forum much so if you have questions, feel free to email me at texd[at]texd[dot]com

texd

<center><img src="http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0RABQF!sS4WNya3qZK7fwqNU5I!mWK9m1yMy!LthXBNKswj7QT n6RLhhfXPy9a4xXhyqeKsk7MuW34!XDkXkvETcCnKnp6RxiA1a Y*qemVm8/P1001420.jpg?dc=4675432523782205540"></center><p>I got an email asking about the parts list. The parts list and original notes are listed in the original post (see below) but I've updated the parts list here. The prices have gone up on the core items by a total of $12 since my original post. Authorized retailers are not permitted to undersell the Yakima MSRP.

<pre>Yak#...Name....................Price...QTY
0105...Q Towers Set of 4........$130.....1
0408...48" Roundbar Pair.........$50.....1
0641...Q Clips Q-41 ($24/pair)...$50.....2
2064...Copperhead Bike Mount.....$80.....1

TOTAL...........................$310</pre>
[as I noted in my post, if doing it again, I'd go with the Steelhead Bike Mount ($109) or the Viper ($130) instead of the Copperhead]

Optional
<pre>7206...SKS Lock Cores 6 pack.....$55.....1
2067...Wheel Fork................$30.....1</pre>

The lock cores are so you can lock everything up. SKS simply means same key system. The wheel fork is so you don't have to put your front wheel inside.

Tex<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/917569.phtml">Original TT rack post</a></li></ul>

adminisTerTurbo

would this possibly work with skis?

texd

I've always wanted to go James Bond Style with it...

<img src="http://members.aol.com/cotsmm/esprit.gif">
For Your Eyes Only - 1981

<img src="http://www.iol.ie/~donohoer/Lotus_Esprit_Turbo_FYEO_front_quarter2.jpg">
Model from For Your Eyes Only

<img src="http://www.bondmovies.com/qbranch/cars/cougar.jpg">
On Her Majesty's Secret Service - 1969
(Technically this car did not belong to Bond, but rather to the Contessa (Tracy) played by the lovely Diana Rigg. I can't believe they killed her. Damn that Blofeld!!! This is my favorite Bond of all time.)

joe@vwvortex

GF want's to try! LOL

Seneb

ha! i can't imagine it fitting too well.

texd

plus the way the clips mount onto the hatch is more stable than many roof applications.

The <a href="http://www.yakima.com/tech_manual/viewimage.asp?part=3325">Yakima tandem mount</a> (<a href="http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?productId=11582051&storeId=8000&cat alogId=40000008000&langId=-1&color=&img=/media/670283Lrg.jpg&view=large&">Alternate View</a>) requires at least 24" spread between the crossbars. This hatchback application comes in around 38".

Your rear wheel will be hanging back. A standard tandem has a wheelbase of about 70" (axle to axle, then add 14 inches for the radius of the wheel itself). With the Yak tandem mount you can set it up with the fork mount ahead of the front crossbar. Assuming you did so by about 8-10 inches, then you have the back wheel extending 36" past the rear Xbar, which is only about 24" past the rearmost part of the car.

If I ever get around to getting a tandem (I've been talking about it for years) I'll definitly try it out.

Tex

joe@vwvortex

try it out. That would be one wild scene with our CoMotion on top!

texd

Someone emailed me to ask for the pictures since the link was dead. Here we go:

Full-Size images (imgur.com)