TTS WHICH QUATTRO SYSTEM?
02-08-2018, 08:41 AM
#11
I believe you're still capable of downshifting with the paddle shifters even in automatic mode. The shifting will be temporary, but it should suffice for those moments when you need extra oomph
02-08-2018, 09:14 AM
#13
So, I don't so much care about the loss of control since I'm thrashing my car more than 90% of drivers. I did name my car Lt. Drifts for a reason as the rear gets out like crazy sometimes. But thats ok! The issue im more speaking to is for tighter corners theres a cut in power and that absolutely ruins the performance experience. Especially when compared to the MX5 which i'm aware is a totally different car. Second if I leave it in sport mode and floor it, at most any speed, it downshifts but NOT enough. There is always another gear I could have safely downshifted if I was in manual mode. I've tested it out multiple times. Sport mode will not downshift as much as it can, even safely, when pushed to the floor.
With DSG it's very important that you "telegraph" what you're wanting before, and honestly to try to keep your gear changes to one gear at a time. For example, coming onto the freeway stuck behind someone slow on the on-ramp, I could be in 6th already at 55. So I try to get on the throttle a bit to get me into 5th (and get 4th ready), then when I punch it, it has 4th ready to go. I always have to chuckle when people try the various car's i've owned, and inevitably, in top gear on the freeway with no throttle, suddenly floor it. This is the worst way to get ANY engine or transmission to perform (not to mention an engine with variable valve-timing, multiple intake path's, and a turbo), not to mention is the least-refined way to experience an engine's power. It's loud, dumps a bunch of fuel, and doesn't really get you there any faster. Much better to go part throttle, then slowly ease into full throttle over a second or so to give the engine and transmission time to prepare (via wastegate application, turbo spooling, valve timing, and gear pre-selection). If you're totally off the throttle, then suddenly go WOT, you're asking for disappointment. Not to be rude, but that's what simple, naturally-aspirated engines with manual transmisisons are for.
2nd thought: Do you know about the kick-down switch on the throttle? I'm surprised how many people don't know about it. There's a hard, clicking switch at the very bottom of the throttle travel that many German automakers use. It's fantastic for automatic's, because it helps avoid those situations when you want full throttle but don't want the transmission to wail down into the lowest possible gear only to have it up-shift a half-second later when it redlines. Going WOT but no kick-down will often drop a gear or two and give full throttle. Then hitting the kickdown is "GIVE ME ALL SHE'S GOT SCOTTY", lowest-possible gear, highest RPM, at the expense of comfort and noise (but you don't care about those haha).
Maybe you knew these two, but just things to keep in mind.
02-08-2018, 09:30 AM
#14
AudiWorld Super User
Excellent macaddict111 !! And related to your second point on the throttle kick-down switch, it's necessary to go beyond same for launch control to properly engage. Some think they're going WOT in prep for launch but actually not until they pass that detent.
Launch Control:
Engine oil heated to typical operational range
Dynamic mode (and also Sport mode if not already)
DSC (aka ESC) Off
Left foot hard on brake
Right foot hard on gas pedal (beyond said detent); maintain until rpm's settle
Release brake pedal
Launch Control:
Engine oil heated to typical operational range
Dynamic mode (and also Sport mode if not already)
DSC (aka ESC) Off
Left foot hard on brake
Right foot hard on gas pedal (beyond said detent); maintain until rpm's settle
Release brake pedal
02-08-2018, 09:50 AM
#15
Excellent macaddict111 !! And related to your second point on the throttle kick-down switch, it's necessary to go beyond same for launch control to properly engage. Some think they're going WOT in prep for launch but actually not until they pass that detent.
Launch Control:
Engine oil heated to typical operational range
Dynamic mode (and also Sport mode if not already)
DSC (aka ESC) Off
Left foot hard on brake
Right foot hard on gas pedal (beyond said detent); maintain until rpm's settle
Release brake pedal
Launch Control:
Engine oil heated to typical operational range
Dynamic mode (and also Sport mode if not already)
DSC (aka ESC) Off
Left foot hard on brake
Right foot hard on gas pedal (beyond said detent); maintain until rpm's settle
Release brake pedal
02-08-2018, 11:00 AM
#16
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Quattro and Drive Select
Great info and description of the various Quattro implementations. I was curious if anyone had any info on what the various Quattro settings within the Drive Select Individual setup menu change (comfort vs dynamic vs auto)? I live in New England, and am curious if I could be running one setting for a sportier experience during the summer, but could/should switch for winter snow/ice driving conditions?
02-08-2018, 11:31 AM
#17
AudiWorld Super User
In the winter in New England in low traction situations you want relatively low torque, so not dynamic mode. I also go with aftermarket 18” rims and Michelin dedicated winter tires for grip and a bit more sidewall for pothole protection.
In the summer I go with my 19” OEM rims & performance tires. Individual mode, which for me is all dynamic save for suspension in comfort (i’m older; but track full dynamic).
In the summer I go with my 19” OEM rims & performance tires. Individual mode, which for me is all dynamic save for suspension in comfort (i’m older; but track full dynamic).
Great info and description of the various Quattro implementations. I was curious if anyone had any info on what the various Quattro settings within the Drive Select Individual setup menu change (comfort vs dynamic vs auto)? I live in New England, and am curious if I could be running one setting for a sportier experience during the summer, but could/should switch for winter snow/ice driving conditions?
02-08-2018, 12:35 PM
#18
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Some thoughts: Much of what you're noticing here isn't particularly to do with the AWD system. First: are you simply running into the limitations of a dual-clutch transmission? This has happened to me a couple times when I'm slowing at a red light, light turns green, and then I punch it again at just the wrong moment (which is one of the more challenging things to get good at with a true manual of course too). It was probably driving me in 4th and had 3rd pre-selected right about to shift. But then when I floor it what I really need is 2nd, which is on the same clutch, so it has to basically do a single-clutch change which can take up to a second.
With DSG it's very important that you "telegraph" what you're wanting before, and honestly to try to keep your gear changes to one gear at a time. For example, coming onto the freeway stuck behind someone slow on the on-ramp, I could be in 6th already at 55. So I try to get on the throttle a bit to get me into 5th (and get 4th ready), then when I punch it, it has 4th ready to go. I always have to chuckle when people try the various car's i've owned, and inevitably, in top gear on the freeway with no throttle, suddenly floor it. This is the worst way to get ANY engine or transmission to perform (not to mention an engine with variable valve-timing, multiple intake path's, and a turbo), not to mention is the least-refined way to experience an engine's power. It's loud, dumps a bunch of fuel, and doesn't really get you there any faster. Much better to go part throttle, then slowly ease into full throttle over a second or so to give the engine and transmission time to prepare (via wastegate application, turbo spooling, valve timing, and gear pre-selection). If you're totally off the throttle, then suddenly go WOT, you're asking for disappointment. Not to be rude, but that's what simple, naturally-aspirated engines with manual transmisisons are for.
2nd thought: Do you know about the kick-down switch on the throttle? I'm surprised how many people don't know about it. There's a hard, clicking switch at the very bottom of the throttle travel that many German automakers use. It's fantastic for automatic's, because it helps avoid those situations when you want full throttle but don't want the transmission to wail down into the lowest possible gear only to have it up-shift a half-second later when it redlines. Going WOT but no kick-down will often drop a gear or two and give full throttle. Then hitting the kickdown is "GIVE ME ALL SHE'S GOT SCOTTY", lowest-possible gear, highest RPM, at the expense of comfort and noise (but you don't care about those haha).
Maybe you knew these two, but just things to keep in mind.
With DSG it's very important that you "telegraph" what you're wanting before, and honestly to try to keep your gear changes to one gear at a time. For example, coming onto the freeway stuck behind someone slow on the on-ramp, I could be in 6th already at 55. So I try to get on the throttle a bit to get me into 5th (and get 4th ready), then when I punch it, it has 4th ready to go. I always have to chuckle when people try the various car's i've owned, and inevitably, in top gear on the freeway with no throttle, suddenly floor it. This is the worst way to get ANY engine or transmission to perform (not to mention an engine with variable valve-timing, multiple intake path's, and a turbo), not to mention is the least-refined way to experience an engine's power. It's loud, dumps a bunch of fuel, and doesn't really get you there any faster. Much better to go part throttle, then slowly ease into full throttle over a second or so to give the engine and transmission time to prepare (via wastegate application, turbo spooling, valve timing, and gear pre-selection). If you're totally off the throttle, then suddenly go WOT, you're asking for disappointment. Not to be rude, but that's what simple, naturally-aspirated engines with manual transmisisons are for.
2nd thought: Do you know about the kick-down switch on the throttle? I'm surprised how many people don't know about it. There's a hard, clicking switch at the very bottom of the throttle travel that many German automakers use. It's fantastic for automatic's, because it helps avoid those situations when you want full throttle but don't want the transmission to wail down into the lowest possible gear only to have it up-shift a half-second later when it redlines. Going WOT but no kick-down will often drop a gear or two and give full throttle. Then hitting the kickdown is "GIVE ME ALL SHE'S GOT SCOTTY", lowest-possible gear, highest RPM, at the expense of comfort and noise (but you don't care about those haha).
Maybe you knew these two, but just things to keep in mind.
02-08-2018, 01:25 PM
#19
So I suppose there's no way of saying this without sounding like a crybaby but that seems like an awfully lot of work and brain power to get a transmission to do what it should in a sport car. I would expect that manner of computing to be on a Hyundai not a $63,000 Audi. But I suppose this is a perfect example of why car men and women prefer manuals to automatics. Curious though how much you have to spend on a car to get a transmission that shifts like it should. And I don't mean that as an insult but I can't imagine that transmission Behavior would be tolerated with a Lamborghini.
My comment about staying in gear is just referring to the fact that if you aren't in manual mode, then the system will eventually return to automatic shifting. At least that's how it's worked for me on other cars. My tt rs is being built, so I haven't tested this particular model yet.
02-09-2018, 04:22 AM
#20
Can_Quattro as usual hit the nail on the head, so some related info:
"Due to their engine layout, some Audis employ a different quattro system. The likes of the A3 and TT use the MQB platform, shared by the likes of the Volkswagen Golf, Seat Leon and Skoda Octavia. MQB cars – as with most cars in this class – feature a transversely (sideways) mounted engine. This means the Torsen system would not physically fit under the bonnet. Instead, these models employ a Haldex four-wheel drive system.
In contrast to the Torsen system, Haldex sends nearly all of the engine’s torque to the front wheels in normal conditions. If slip is detected in the front axle, the Haldex clutch can completely lock, diverting up to 100 per cent of torque rearwards. Then, with the use of electronic differentials integrated into the traction and stability control systems, torque can be diverted to individual wheels on each axle if necessary.
Due to the difference between the Haldex and Torsen systems, die-hard Audi fans will often refer to cars equipped with the Torsen system as ‘true quattros’, because the two systems have different characteristics under extreme driving conditions.
Any disadvantages?
In quattro systems, the need to package all the components means the gearbox is much longer than normal. This forces the engine to be positioned further forward, which means it’s forced out ahead of the front wheels. All this extra weight over the nose of the car results in an eventual loss of grip at the front during hard cornering.
When compared to the Haldex quattro models, the traditional Torsen versions are less economical, too. Under normal driving conditions, all-wheel drive isn’t necessary but, because torque is permanently sent to all four wheels, the driveline losses make the system slightly more wasteful, resulting in higher fuel consumption."
https://www.carwow.co.uk/guides/glos...stem-explained
"Due to their engine layout, some Audis employ a different quattro system. The likes of the A3 and TT use the MQB platform, shared by the likes of the Volkswagen Golf, Seat Leon and Skoda Octavia. MQB cars – as with most cars in this class – feature a transversely (sideways) mounted engine. This means the Torsen system would not physically fit under the bonnet. Instead, these models employ a Haldex four-wheel drive system.
In contrast to the Torsen system, Haldex sends nearly all of the engine’s torque to the front wheels in normal conditions. If slip is detected in the front axle, the Haldex clutch can completely lock, diverting up to 100 per cent of torque rearwards. Then, with the use of electronic differentials integrated into the traction and stability control systems, torque can be diverted to individual wheels on each axle if necessary.
Due to the difference between the Haldex and Torsen systems, die-hard Audi fans will often refer to cars equipped with the Torsen system as ‘true quattros’, because the two systems have different characteristics under extreme driving conditions.
Any disadvantages?
In quattro systems, the need to package all the components means the gearbox is much longer than normal. This forces the engine to be positioned further forward, which means it’s forced out ahead of the front wheels. All this extra weight over the nose of the car results in an eventual loss of grip at the front during hard cornering.
When compared to the Haldex quattro models, the traditional Torsen versions are less economical, too. Under normal driving conditions, all-wheel drive isn’t necessary but, because torque is permanently sent to all four wheels, the driveline losses make the system slightly more wasteful, resulting in higher fuel consumption."
https://www.carwow.co.uk/guides/glos...stem-explained