Hood release wire snapped, hood closed
04-19-2015, 07:40 PM
#41
AudiWorld Super User
Yes. That's why I said go in directly above the right edge of the grill. I also said I spent most of my effort with the passenger side latch. However, the photos and write-up should give an idea on how to accomplish what you need. Otherwise, you'll have to pay someone to do it for you.
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tipomac (05-11-2022)
04-20-2015, 05:45 AM
#42
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Here here, a hats off to Mister Bally!
Excellent information, Mr.B!!
This is the type of thing that raises the bar for lesser forums, and why AW is the most useful D3 forum on the net.
For those of you who've never done an informational writeup, it it far harder than you think! Especially getting decent pics, measurements, and explaining them concisely. I bet he has at least a good two hours invested in that; and for what - to help a complete stranger, (and many more future members who STFA) whose only connection is the car we drive.
+1+1+1+1 Mister Bally!
This is the type of thing that raises the bar for lesser forums, and why AW is the most useful D3 forum on the net.
For those of you who've never done an informational writeup, it it far harder than you think! Especially getting decent pics, measurements, and explaining them concisely. I bet he has at least a good two hours invested in that; and for what - to help a complete stranger, (and many more future members who STFA) whose only connection is the car we drive.
+1+1+1+1 Mister Bally!
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tipomac (05-11-2022)
04-20-2015, 06:51 AM
#43
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Help? We followed the procedure. Lock air suspension. Jack up car. Remove wheel. Place jack stand. Remove inner fender liner. Remove diagonal brace. Carefully move wiring bundle for better access. Locate junction box (you weren't kidding about the need for small hands!). Open junction box. Isolate cables. Hood release actuates the passenger side latch but not the driver side. Manually pulling on the passenger side cable releases passenger side latch. Pulling on the driver side cable does nothing. No movement what so ever.
What method will my local Audi dealer use to get the hood open and can anyone estimate the cost.
This is the kind of penny ante bull**** that is driving me away from Audi. This was a $100k+ car when new and its grounded cause I can't open the flipping hood!
I will be calling Audi corporate on Monday to pitch a fit. It's worked in the past (transmission replaced at no cost at 65k miles on my 2003 A6 2.7T, that was a great car).
Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
My thanks in advance.
Jim
What method will my local Audi dealer use to get the hood open and can anyone estimate the cost.
This is the kind of penny ante bull**** that is driving me away from Audi. This was a $100k+ car when new and its grounded cause I can't open the flipping hood!
I will be calling Audi corporate on Monday to pitch a fit. It's worked in the past (transmission replaced at no cost at 65k miles on my 2003 A6 2.7T, that was a great car).
Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
My thanks in advance.
Jim
Read my post. Your cable has fallen out at the latch. You're going to need a long reciprocating saw blade and to have to cut the hook on the side that won't pop. Audi quoted my customer 3k plus to fix his problem when in reality it can be fixed in 15 minutes and 30 bucks in parts.
04-20-2015, 03:35 PM
#44
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I stopped by my "local" Audi dealer this afternoon. Explained the problem and the steps taken to date to get the hood open without damaging the car,not no avail. Asked two service advisors at the same time how THEIR technicians would get the hood open. After an awkward pause the more senior advisor looked at me and replied, "I'm not sure how they'll get it open but we will." Asked if there were any special tools they would use. "No." Would any components of the car, such as the coolant overflow tank, be at risk? "I don't think so."
I'm not overflowing with confidence. Ordered a bore scope today. I swear on the Gods of over engineered German horsepower I'm (we) are not going to be beat by this. A way will be found.
I'm not overflowing with confidence. Ordered a bore scope today. I swear on the Gods of over engineered German horsepower I'm (we) are not going to be beat by this. A way will be found.
Last edited by JNA; 04-21-2015 at 04:52 AM.
04-22-2015, 06:20 AM
#45
AudiWorld Member
Go to an actual mechanic, not the dealer. I'm sure they will be able to do that, especially with this thread as a guide. Plenty of good indys out there that actually care about solving problems, not hooking up a computer and charging you to replace any part that flags an error.
04-25-2015, 03:16 PM
#46
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Been at it with the properly configured screwdriver (you're correct, the Harbor Freight product did not require heat and did not snap) assisted by a bore scope. Even when we can see what we're trying to do we can't get the flipping latch to release. Taking her to a local German car specialist and buying a fresh container of Vaseline.
Thanks to everyone here for all the help.
Jim
Thanks to everyone here for all the help.
Jim
04-25-2015, 04:48 PM
#47
AudiWorld Super User
Been at it with the properly configured screwdriver (you're correct, the Harbor Freight product did not require heat and did not snap) assisted by a bore scope. Even when we can see what we're trying to do we can't get the flipping latch to release. Taking her to a local German car specialist and buying a fresh container of Vaseline.
Thanks to everyone here for all the help.
Jim
Thanks to everyone here for all the help.
Jim
04-27-2015, 07:23 AM
#49
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Well, we've followed all the guidance that has so generously offered (thank you Tech Guru) and feel we're going to have to throw in the towel. The only conclusion we can reach is the short cable running to the drivers side latch is no longer attached to the latch itself. No amount of pressing down on the hood at the latch combined with pulling on the cable is releasing the latch. Which again brings me to how will the dealer fix it and how many perfectly good parts (front grill, coolant tank, power steering resivor, etc.) will need to be sacrificed to open the hood. I see no way to apply the Sawsall method without doing SIGNIFICANT damage to the hood/grill. I will wait for additional guidance here before I put it all back together and take it to the dealer.
Any recommendations as to a technician OTHER than an Audi dealer would be appreciated.
Again, my thanks to all.
Jim
jna@msn.com
708-579-5050
Suburban Chicago
Any recommendations as to a technician OTHER than an Audi dealer would be appreciated.
Again, my thanks to all.
Jim
jna@msn.com
708-579-5050
Suburban Chicago
Jim,
Please read my writeup. I had already told you this but it doesn't seem like you saw my post. wedge the hood open as far as you can without damaging it on the side that the cable popped out on, get a long recip saw blade and cut the hook that's attached to the hood. it literally takes 15 minutes to do and will save you thousands. Audi wanted to cut an access hole in my customers hood and charge them 3k or more to open their hood. It took me 2 days to figure out how to open their hood like this. All the cutting of coolant reservoirs and whatnot did no good. you'll scratch a few things with the blade but damage will be minimal. Message me if you have any questions.
04-27-2015, 07:32 AM
#50
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Another message to all those that have pulled the wheel liner, found the cables, pulled on them but the hood still wont pop. In this scenario, the cables have popped out at the actual lock. As long as one side of the hood is able to pop, you'll want to wedge the hood open and cut the hook on the hood on the side that isn't opening. You can do it with a long reciprocating saw blade. you'll have to be cautious in order to try not to damage more than you have to but the end result will be that you are able to open the hood 15 minutes later. You'll need to buy a new hood hook, plastic cover for the hook and new cables..... Problem solved for minimal money spent and the least amount of damge....