Brundlefly

OK, further info:

Today driving it threw the light when just driving at level 2.

Later it indicated it was at level 1 trying to get to level 2 (flashing level 2 light). It stopped eventually at 1 but didn't put the light on.

I just cleared codes and tried level 2 again. It failed at level 1 and put the light on. Error 01400 Suspension Level Control, 11-10 Control Limit not Reached - Intermittent.

It says I am at level 1 and measures about 37CM front and rear (as measured from passenger side).

I hear occasional air pressure release from somewhere. In this case as I turned of the car and was putting VAGCOM cable away it released air for about 3-5 seconds, though it seems to be at level 1.

Brundlefly

For a laugh I have run the "402 mod" but only to re-enter the 402 level norms. While in "wait" mode it DID go back to level 2. I saved 402 for all channels and saved it. I took it for a small drive and it remianed at 2 with no codes thrown. We shall see...

Brundlefly

No improvement. Car struggled with level 2, finally got there on the 3rd attempt. Took a long 6 hour drive today. It was at level 2 most of the time but the last hour it dropped to level 1 and the ride got much rougher.

I didn't check the code when I got home, assuming it is the same.

Is it time to take it to a dealer or could it be ride height sensors? I'm not sure it's an air leak unless it's from the pump as the whole system stays a uniform height.

I read a few older posts about using air tool oil in the intake, do people still do that? Seemed like there ma have been some that advised against this.

bagpipingandy

Still sounds like a pressure issue,

what condition was the compressor cylinder in? was it smooth with no scoring? it should be grey in colour tapered but smooth with no metal marks through the smooth coating

it should lift through each level in 15-20 seconds if all healthy, i guess yours takes a lot longer to lift, so either bad pressure from the compressor or a leak after the compressor, make sure the thread is not stripped in the end of the plastic body, the one the brass fitting screws into.

i suspect if it worked up to level 4 the 1st time the cylinder may be badly scored, let us know to see if we can get it working any better,

best regards

Andy

Brundlefly

Hi Andy and all.

I did check the cylinder and it was fine (at least to my level of knowledge). I finally tried the pneumatic oil trick and, hopefully not cursing myself here, it seemed to have helped immensely.

For going on a week I have stayed at level 2 with no errors, no light on the dash. I have put it down to level 1 and brought it back to level 2 for a while, up to 3, then back down. All of this was over time, didn't flog it to see if it would continue to work under pressure but I'm ok as long as it can been done and not throw a code.

If someone is having a similar issue I'd suggest trying that out. I mean I went from (even with a rebuild) not being able to go from level to level without tossing a code to being able to use it in a regular fashion or letting it go for days at the same level. It's pretty amazing.

I'm not sure if it helped create more pressure in the cylinder or if it swelled the ring or if it travelled to the valve body and fixed a stuck valve or what but I'd say it's working pretty good. It still takes longer than I'd think to get from level to level but that's OK.

For those that may want to try there are a few good posts on it in this forum. The basics are to go to the spare tire area in the trunk, removing the baffle/noise suppressor by pulling the 10mm bolts holding it in place. Remove the hose clamp on the air tube (don't let the tube pull out of it's hole and under the car), start the pump by going up a level, and drip/spray a couple drops of air tool oil into the tube. You'll hear it gurgle a bit occasionally. Don't overdo it, I think I may have put 5-10 drops in total. I moved it between levels a couple times and it was immediately improved.

I've heard some people say they had to apply oil a couple times to get it to work for them.

Hope it helps someone else out like it's helped me!

PetrolBear

Hi,
The system is designed for dry operation. Oil will kill the compressor completely. Eventually the magnet valve body, too.
1. Your compressor is completely worn. It should be exchanged immediately. If you will have a new one, it would blow up the spare tank to 16,7 bar, within 2 minutes. (BTW, G291 is a sign that the system cannot reach this nominal pressure rate! Do not buy a new valve body because of that! -> G291 is "melted into it")
In that case, at idling and parking, the new comp should be able to rise at least 5 levels without running up the compressor. One level from the spare tank takes approx 8-10-12 seconds for me.
2. You might have also leak/s too. The pipes are usually very stable. First you buy a compressor and then search for eventual leaks. So it will be much easier. An easy option to set into jack mode by pressing up and down marks for 6 seconds, or disconnect the battery for night. Won't level then.
3. I have to say, there will be eventually a problem with your LCM module. Frequent compressor (mis-)use kills that part, too - slowly. Maybe you will also need another one, as I had to (see: communication error, occasionally. That time, the LCM module freezes down..)

ps. you should download ssp 243 and 242