Where is the Oil Drain Plug?
#1
Where is the Oil Drain Plug?
I have a 2003 A4 1.8T. I want to change my own oil in between the free dealer changes as I don't think every 10k miles is often enough. I was going to do this and to my surprise there is a large plastic skid plate under the engine. Does this need to be removed to get to the drain plug? If so any tips on removing this?
Thank you
Thank you
#3
Instructions inside...
Found it in the Audiworld Tech articles...for a B5, but pretty much the same for B6. Welcome!<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng10.shtml">Clicky</a></li></ul>
#4
Re: Oil Drain Plug?
The plastic pan does need to be removed by turning the 10 odd quick release (1/2 turn)fasteners that hold it. To turn the fasteners you will need a large flat blade screwdriver preferably with a stub (short) handle. Most of the fasteners are on the bottom of the pan but 2 (1 per side) are in the lower front portion of the front fender liners.
Once the plastic is off it is quite straightforward to access the drain plug at the lower rear of the alloy oil pan. Remember to get a new drain plug gasket. The filter is easy to get at from above or below. The only problem arises when you loosen the filter and oil begins to run down the block onto the lower subframe under the engine. This annoying problem can be solved by placing a small plastic container (I use a square Tupperware dish) right under the filter to catch the oil. Once the dish has done it's job you can carefully spin the filter the rest of the way off from above, turn it upright and gently lift it out.
Install everything in reverse order and you are done. After a couple of oil changes the whole process takes about 30 minutes.
Once the plastic is off it is quite straightforward to access the drain plug at the lower rear of the alloy oil pan. Remember to get a new drain plug gasket. The filter is easy to get at from above or below. The only problem arises when you loosen the filter and oil begins to run down the block onto the lower subframe under the engine. This annoying problem can be solved by placing a small plastic container (I use a square Tupperware dish) right under the filter to catch the oil. Once the dish has done it's job you can carefully spin the filter the rest of the way off from above, turn it upright and gently lift it out.
Install everything in reverse order and you are done. After a couple of oil changes the whole process takes about 30 minutes.
#6
Changes 2x a year works well. More miles driven = better oil. I go 9k on VW 503.01 oil like M1 0w-40
but if you go a few less miles in 6 months, the "regular" 30 weight M1 will work fine unless you are highly modified. If you see the M1 5w-40, use that, no VW specs, but it is a better oil. 10k is not really a problem on the few oils that are up to it like M1 0w-40, 0w-30 Castrol Syntec, awesome 0w-30 Saab Synthetic, Motul or the M1 5w-40.
check this out...<ul><li><a href="http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005119">Engine pics, Syntec 5w-50, 110k on 10k changes</a></li></ul>
check this out...<ul><li><a href="http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005119">Engine pics, Syntec 5w-50, 110k on 10k changes</a></li></ul>
#7
Glad to see that "Motul" is now in your [oil] vocab ;)
BTW; I'll have a sample of some 20K mile M1 0W-40 factory fill soon from my Dad's car to do a UOA. I can't wait. Switching to Motul Ester E-Tech 0W-40.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
audiinnj
A4 (B8 Platform) Discussion
9
12-05-2018 04:31 AM
ECS Tuning-Audi
A4 (B7 Platform) Discussion
0
09-01-2015 09:16 AM