Problems after clutch R&R
08-06-2015, 05:22 PM
#1
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Problems after clutch R&R
I have a 2001 Allroad with the 6 spd manual with 164k. I have had it for 4 years and it is my daily driver. It has a stage 3 APR chip and I run it with 93 octane on the 91 octane program. For the most part I drive it like a grandpa, but do occasionally get on it. The clutch started to slip under boost about 4 months ago so I turned off the chip to buy me some more time.
A couple weeks ago I had a local mechanic I trust install a kit from 034. It included their aluminum flywheel, what they called an RS4 clutch (LUK brand supposedly OEM), and a SPEC stage 3+ feramic disk. Plus new throw out bearing and flywheel bolts.
When they bled the slave it blew up. They replaced it and bled it again. The clutch won't go all the way to the floor. It stops just above the starter interlock switch. You can start it by just pushing harder for a moment. The rest of the throw is a little lighter than it was on the old clutch. If I leave the car on level ground there is a couple inches of range where the engine won't start to load down. Then over the last inch or so is all the transition from disengaged to engaged.
I could probably live with this except now it is harder to shift. You have to put close to the gear and then slide it in. It used to do this when it was 10 degrees out for the first 10 minutes or so. Other than that it has always shifted smoothly. Even right now it shifts just fine when the engine is off.
The shop said it is getting harder to get good parts so there is a chance there is something haywire with the slave, but I don't think I am so lucky. I suspect we are going to have to go back in there, but it would be good to rule out everything else first and to know what to be looking for when he gets in there.
This may or may not be related, but if I load the engine at all under 2k it growls now. I assume this is the lack of a big heavy flywheel. 034 said it would be noisier at parking lot speeds. My wife's CRX with a 6.5 lb Fidanza doesn't make this sound however.
So far my theories are (in order of likelihood):
-Improperly set auto adjusting function
-Crooked or not fully installed flywheel. The mechanic said it had a 3 thou interference with the crank and he had to draw it on with the bolts.
-Borked fork
-Faulty throw out bearing
-Bad slave cylinder
Thoughts?
Thanks! I love this car, but this "upgrade" has been a serious reduction in performance so far.
A couple weeks ago I had a local mechanic I trust install a kit from 034. It included their aluminum flywheel, what they called an RS4 clutch (LUK brand supposedly OEM), and a SPEC stage 3+ feramic disk. Plus new throw out bearing and flywheel bolts.
When they bled the slave it blew up. They replaced it and bled it again. The clutch won't go all the way to the floor. It stops just above the starter interlock switch. You can start it by just pushing harder for a moment. The rest of the throw is a little lighter than it was on the old clutch. If I leave the car on level ground there is a couple inches of range where the engine won't start to load down. Then over the last inch or so is all the transition from disengaged to engaged.
I could probably live with this except now it is harder to shift. You have to put close to the gear and then slide it in. It used to do this when it was 10 degrees out for the first 10 minutes or so. Other than that it has always shifted smoothly. Even right now it shifts just fine when the engine is off.
The shop said it is getting harder to get good parts so there is a chance there is something haywire with the slave, but I don't think I am so lucky. I suspect we are going to have to go back in there, but it would be good to rule out everything else first and to know what to be looking for when he gets in there.
This may or may not be related, but if I load the engine at all under 2k it growls now. I assume this is the lack of a big heavy flywheel. 034 said it would be noisier at parking lot speeds. My wife's CRX with a 6.5 lb Fidanza doesn't make this sound however.
So far my theories are (in order of likelihood):
-Improperly set auto adjusting function
-Crooked or not fully installed flywheel. The mechanic said it had a 3 thou interference with the crank and he had to draw it on with the bolts.
-Borked fork
-Faulty throw out bearing
-Bad slave cylinder
Thoughts?
Thanks! I love this car, but this "upgrade" has been a serious reduction in performance so far.
08-06-2015, 05:34 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
There's a reason to stick with OEM parts
I have a 2001 Allroad with the 6 spd manual with 164k. I have had it for 4 years and it is my daily driver. It has a stage 3 APR chip and I run it with 93 octane on the 91 octane program. For the most part I drive it like a grandpa, but do occasionally get on it. The clutch started to slip under boost about 4 months ago so I turned off the chip to buy me some more time.
A couple weeks ago I had a local mechanic I trust install a kit from 034. It included their aluminum flywheel, what they called an RS4 clutch (LUK brand supposedly OEM), and a SPEC stage 3+ feramic disk. Plus new throw out bearing and flywheel bolts.
When they bled the slave it blew up. They replaced it and bled it again. The clutch won't go all the way to the floor. It stops just above the starter interlock switch. You can start it by just pushing harder for a moment. The rest of the throw is a little lighter than it was on the old clutch. If I leave the car on level ground there is a couple inches of range where the engine won't start to load down. Then over the last inch or so is all the transition from disengaged to engaged.
I could probably live with this except now it is harder to shift. You have to put close to the gear and then slide it in. It used to do this when it was 10 degrees out for the first 10 minutes or so. Other than that it has always shifted smoothly. Even right now it shifts just fine when the engine is off.
The shop said it is getting harder to get good parts so there is a chance there is something haywire with the slave, but I don't think I am so lucky. I suspect we are going to have to go back in there, but it would be good to rule out everything else first and to know what to be looking for when he gets in there.
This may or may not be related, but if I load the engine at all under 2k it growls now. I assume this is the lack of a big heavy flywheel. 034 said it would be noisier at parking lot speeds. My wife's CRX with a 6.5 lb Fidanza doesn't make this sound however.
So far my theories are (in order of likelihood):
-Improperly set auto adjusting function
-Crooked or not fully installed flywheel. The mechanic said it had a 3 thou interference with the crank and he had to draw it on with the bolts.
-Borked fork
-Faulty throw out bearing
-Bad slave cylinder
Thoughts?
Thanks! I love this car, but this "upgrade" has been a serious reduction in performance so far.
A couple weeks ago I had a local mechanic I trust install a kit from 034. It included their aluminum flywheel, what they called an RS4 clutch (LUK brand supposedly OEM), and a SPEC stage 3+ feramic disk. Plus new throw out bearing and flywheel bolts.
When they bled the slave it blew up. They replaced it and bled it again. The clutch won't go all the way to the floor. It stops just above the starter interlock switch. You can start it by just pushing harder for a moment. The rest of the throw is a little lighter than it was on the old clutch. If I leave the car on level ground there is a couple inches of range where the engine won't start to load down. Then over the last inch or so is all the transition from disengaged to engaged.
I could probably live with this except now it is harder to shift. You have to put close to the gear and then slide it in. It used to do this when it was 10 degrees out for the first 10 minutes or so. Other than that it has always shifted smoothly. Even right now it shifts just fine when the engine is off.
The shop said it is getting harder to get good parts so there is a chance there is something haywire with the slave, but I don't think I am so lucky. I suspect we are going to have to go back in there, but it would be good to rule out everything else first and to know what to be looking for when he gets in there.
This may or may not be related, but if I load the engine at all under 2k it growls now. I assume this is the lack of a big heavy flywheel. 034 said it would be noisier at parking lot speeds. My wife's CRX with a 6.5 lb Fidanza doesn't make this sound however.
So far my theories are (in order of likelihood):
-Improperly set auto adjusting function
-Crooked or not fully installed flywheel. The mechanic said it had a 3 thou interference with the crank and he had to draw it on with the bolts.
-Borked fork
-Faulty throw out bearing
-Bad slave cylinder
Thoughts?
Thanks! I love this car, but this "upgrade" has been a serious reduction in performance so far.
You'll also have better warranty support with a dealer-installed package. An Audi A6 loaner while they fix your car for starters.
08-07-2015, 03:33 AM
#3
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I would not use an aluminum flywheel on an Allroad. Mixing components is generally not a great idea either. Pulling a flywheel on with the bolts is bush league. Sounds like tolerance stack up...measure all the parts relative to OEM and consider a better engineered solution. Probably complete OEM.
You'll also have better warranty support with a dealer-installed package. An Audi A6 loaner while they fix your car for starters.
You'll also have better warranty support with a dealer-installed package. An Audi A6 loaner while they fix your car for starters.
That said I am where I am and I posted looking for solutions rather than criticisms. Does anyone have any BTDT or even theories as to what I am seeing?
Thanks
08-08-2015, 06:46 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Sorry you feel that constructive suggestion was a criticism.
I am not interested in driving a stock vehicle or driving 75 miles round trip to pay double at the dealer. My shop also stands behind their work and I don't need or want to pay for a loaner. I am just trying to get some ideas of what to look for before opening everything up again.
That said I am where I am and I posted looking for solutions rather than criticisms. Does anyone have any BTDT or even theories as to what I am seeing?
Thanks
That said I am where I am and I posted looking for solutions rather than criticisms. Does anyone have any BTDT or even theories as to what I am seeing?
Thanks
Good luck.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 08-08-2015 at 06:50 PM.
09-12-2015, 10:54 AM
#5
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I thought I would post what I found for future reference in case anyone runs into problems similar to what I saw. It seems we had two problems working in tandem. First the flywheel came with special low head bolts and they somehow got separated from they flywheel so the mechanic used standard OE bolts. This caused part of the sheet metal on the clutch hub to drag on the bolt heads and is likely why the shifting was hard. Fixing this however didn't fix the pedal not going to the floor. We tried a second new slave cylinder and now it seems more normal. It is still a tiny bit off the flywheel when fully depressed, but otherwise things seem to work. So it looks like the first new slave cylinder was faulty.
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