Need help after major work
07-03-2019, 06:47 AM
#21
I tested my Volvo sensor, which is a very similar sensor but with a different pinout. Spade connectors did not fit well on it but I could slightly squish red but splice connectors to fit great. Finding the two pins for the coil I was able to get a small AC voltage out of it by waggling a screwdriver tip past the sensor very quickly. However these sensors I'd assumed were basically a one-string guitar pickup and I thought that'd be fun to test. Sure enough hooked to an amp the sensor produces sound when held near a moving guitar string. The sensitivity range is quite small, it needs to be very close to the flywheel/string so I could see some manufacturing issue keeping the sensor too far away from the source in your case. Maybe some double-sided tape and a plastic washer or something could be attached to your sensor to see if the gap is small enough. It needs to be less than 1mm gap.
I've not studied putting a facelift trans into a PFL but I'd be surprised if there was a change. Anything is possible though. The sensor should work for a bit if being eroded by the teeth, depends on how much gets ground off I suppose.
I've not studied putting a facelift trans into a PFL but I'd be surprised if there was a change. Anything is possible though. The sensor should work for a bit if being eroded by the teeth, depends on how much gets ground off I suppose.
07-03-2019, 10:04 AM
#22
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Hmm. Dead is kinda surprising. This procedure sounds like it'd be appropriate for the A8:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/aud...vance-2136877/
I thought the car was running in this configuration with the FUN trans and then pooped out a few times? The old sensor might be test-able at least, maybe if you cut off the wiring on the good side of the damage. You might also be able to test them by waving a screwdriver past the business end. I'll try this in a bit, I have a Volvo crank sensor around somewhere I plan to steal the wire off of for a 968 cam sensor repair.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/aud...vance-2136877/
I thought the car was running in this configuration with the FUN trans and then pooped out a few times? The old sensor might be test-able at least, maybe if you cut off the wiring on the good side of the damage. You might also be able to test them by waving a screwdriver past the business end. I'll try this in a bit, I have a Volvo crank sensor around somewhere I plan to steal the wire off of for a 968 cam sensor repair.
I tested my Volvo sensor, which is a very similar sensor but with a different pinout. Spade connectors did not fit well on it but I could slightly squish red but splice connectors to fit great. Finding the two pins for the coil I was able to get a small AC voltage out of it by waggling a screwdriver tip past the sensor very quickly. However these sensors I'd assumed were basically a one-string guitar pickup and I thought that'd be fun to test. Sure enough hooked to an amp the sensor produces sound when held near a moving guitar string. The sensitivity range is quite small, it needs to be very close to the flywheel/string so I could see some manufacturing issue keeping the sensor too far away from the source in your case. Maybe some double-sided tape and a plastic washer or something could be attached to your sensor to see if the gap is small enough. It needs to be less than 1mm gap.
I've not studied putting a facelift trans into a PFL but I'd be surprised if there was a change. Anything is possible though. The sensor should work for a bit if being eroded by the teeth, depends on how much gets ground off I suppose.
I've not studied putting a facelift trans into a PFL but I'd be surprised if there was a change. Anything is possible though. The sensor should work for a bit if being eroded by the teeth, depends on how much gets ground off I suppose.
Yes the car was running in this configuration and then pooped out which is what originally made it look like a fuel pump issue. I looked up some tutorials on how to test the 3 wire sensors with a DMM. Before testing the sensor, I verified continuity between the ECU plug and the back of the sensor connector. I found my constant 5 volts and ground and that left only the signal wire. I tested the signal wire while cranking to see if it produced any voltage and it did not. I ran the same test on my 3 wire crank sensor on my 1987 Volvo which did produce voltage during cranking.
I'm getting a new sensor (again) because the only thing that makes sense is that the replacement sensor I bought was bad from the get-go (however unlikely that may seem).
Now I'm also thinking that maybe I should have bought a sensor that matches the trans instead of the year of the car. The facelift D2 has a different part number for the crank sensor...... ok now I'm thinking this might be the key. I'm going to see if I can measure the spacing of the sensor to the teeth of the flex plate. Does the facelift sensor have an aluminum spacer? The PFL sensor does.
07-03-2019, 02:32 PM
#23
It is a same sensor, but the end connector is different.
Make sure that that you have the 5mm aluminum spacer under the sensor or it will hit the flywheel.
Yes the car was running in this configuration and then pooped out which is what originally made it look like a fuel pump issue. I looked up some tutorials on how to test the 3 wire sensors with a DMM. Before testing the sensor, I verified continuity between the ECU plug and the back of the sensor connector. I found my constant 5 volts and ground and that left only the signal wire. I tested the signal wire while cranking to see if it produced any voltage and it did not. I ran the same test on my 3 wire crank sensor on my 1987 Volvo which did produce voltage during cranking.
I'm getting a new sensor (again) because the only thing that makes sense is that the replacement sensor I bought was bad from the get-go (however unlikely that may seem).
Now I'm also thinking that maybe I should have bought a sensor that matches the trans instead of the year of the car. The facelift D2 has a different part number for the crank sensor...... ok now I'm thinking this might be the key. I'm going to see if I can measure the spacing of the sensor to the teeth of the flex plate. Does the facelift sensor have an aluminum spacer? The PFL sensor does.
I'm getting a new sensor (again) because the only thing that makes sense is that the replacement sensor I bought was bad from the get-go (however unlikely that may seem).
Now I'm also thinking that maybe I should have bought a sensor that matches the trans instead of the year of the car. The facelift D2 has a different part number for the crank sensor...... ok now I'm thinking this might be the key. I'm going to see if I can measure the spacing of the sensor to the teeth of the flex plate. Does the facelift sensor have an aluminum spacer? The PFL sensor does.
07-05-2019, 05:41 PM
#24
Well that's good news I guess, sorry we got taken in by the fuel pump symptom when it started up after you added gas. That is, if the crank sensor fixes it. It is good to get the fuel pump replaced before that leaves you walking
07-09-2019, 07:12 AM
#26
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I still haven't figured this out for sure. I just got my second replacement crankshaft position sensor but won't have time to swap it in until tonight. If that doesn't fix it, I'm going to test the ignitions control modules (power output stages). Luckily that is a part I can just go grab at the junkyard as they were used on several VAG models.
08-02-2019, 07:58 AM
#27
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
The car has been sitting as I just haven't had time to deal with it. I went on vacation and when I got back, a mechanic came to look at it. He confirmed fuel, spark, compression. He believes it is timing. Rather than pay him, I had the car towed to my place. I'll be diving into the timing again tomorrow.
I just did the timing as part of the engine/transmission out service I did. I used all of the proper tools and replaced everything with a Continental kit. The strange thing is that I drove the car with no misfires whatsoever and it just wouldn't start after I parked it.
I just did the timing as part of the engine/transmission out service I did. I used all of the proper tools and replaced everything with a Continental kit. The strange thing is that I drove the car with no misfires whatsoever and it just wouldn't start after I parked it.
08-02-2019, 11:05 AM
#28
The car has been sitting as I just haven't had time to deal with it. I went on vacation and when I got back, a mechanic came to look at it. He confirmed fuel, spark, compression. He believes it is timing. Rather than pay him, I had the car towed to my place. I'll be diving into the timing again tomorrow.
I just did the timing as part of the engine/transmission out service I did. I used all of the proper tools and replaced everything with a Continental kit. The strange thing is that I drove the car with no misfires whatsoever and it just wouldn't start after I parked it.
I just did the timing as part of the engine/transmission out service I did. I used all of the proper tools and replaced everything with a Continental kit. The strange thing is that I drove the car with no misfires whatsoever and it just wouldn't start after I parked it.
08-29-2019, 02:48 PM
#30
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Figured it out!
The car has been sitting in the garage. I decided to reassemble the front end after verifying the timing was correct. As I was doing so, I was going back through the timing procedure I had done and remembered that I had removed the camshaft position sensor (didn't think much of it because I had replaced the sensor). Then I remembered that the reluctor ring has to line up with the camshaft properly to transmit proper timing information to the ecu. I pulled the cover/sensor off and sure enough the bolt holding the reluctor ring in had backed out and the ring was spinning freely. Put it back and tightened everything down and the car started right up.
Thanks for your help everybody!
Thanks for your help everybody!
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