ModestW12

I've had spacers for months now but I thought I'd post some photos for those with 20" wheels considering spacers for aesthetic improvement.

I went with 12mm front and 20 mm rear based on information in these threads:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ghlight=spacer
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ghlight=spacer

My car is also VAG-COM/VCDS lowered 20mm front and 10 mm rear from stock W12 height, putting it at stock S8/sport package D3 height in front and right in between the two OEM ride heights on the rear. When I first lowered the car with VAG-COM, I immediately went for a drive to see if I could detect a difference in ride quality in comfort mode between stock and the lowered height. The ride quality felt the same to me.

The car was in dynamic suspension mode in all photos. I don't typically drive in this mode unless I'm specifically taking the car out for a spirited cruise. Automatic mode, which raises the car 20mm front and rear, seems to the ideal compromise of handling and comfort for most situations. Comfort mode is best for very casual drives and longer but relaxed highway trips.

ModestW12

A few more shots.

aceecaus

Looks SA-WEET!

Hilden

Looks great! I need to do the same. Are those "bolt-on" spacers available in 12mm already or only for the thicker ones??

AudiOx

I've only seen bolt-on spacers for 20mm thick and greater.

The bolts are 14mm and you want about 1.5 thread diameters of thread engagement for a safe connection. 14mm * 1.5 = 21mm so, yeah 20mm is pretty much the threshold.

It would be nice to have just 2 'auxilliary' holes (even 8 mm or so) in the hub just to hold the spacer on, then the existing holes could be used with the standard thread engagement assuming you get longer bolts. THAT would be the ticket!

ModestW12

I bought H&R DR's both front and rear. Bolt-on style, A.K.A, DRA's start at 20mm+. However, from posts by MP4.2+6.0, the 20mm DRA's are slightly larger diameter and do not look flush with the wheel and the hub vs. the 20mm DR's which are flush (I don't think the 25mm DRA's have that problem). Check out the threads I linked for more details.

From what I've read is seems there is not enough thickness below 20mm to make bolt-on's with adequate structural integrity.

mishar

I think that simple spacers are better than bolt-on's. Stronger by all means. Not so unimportant on 4000+lbs vehicle. To make handling easier some silicon glue helps. It is easy to remove if needed but it keeps holes aligned. Careful with longer bolts. They should not stick out at the other end or tread can get dirty and corroded. It could make unscrewing very difficult and damage treads.

Problem with bolt-on's is not tread in them. That should be Helicoil steel spiral anyways and 14 mm would be enough. Problem are bolt heads that has to sink in and still live enough material underneath. Aluminum is not strong. I would not enjoy 80 mph on a winding highway knowing how little aluminum holds my wheels.

P.S. Sorry ModestW12, I almost forgot. Your ride looks great. I personally prefer them leveled but 10mm is not too much difference.

By the way, Dynamic is good for freeways, if pavement is OK. It saves some fuel and makes handling better in emergency situations.

ModestW12

I'm not committed to the uneven front/rear heights and will try 20mm/15mm drop soon or even 20mm all around. At OEM height the rear looked a little lower in any mode than the front which is why I tried 20/10. Looking at it more closely, it seems the the top edge of the rear wheelwell appears lower/closer to the top wheel edge by design, possibly since it does not have to provide clearance during suspension play when the wheels are turned like in the front

I wonder if the 20/10 is detrimental to handling vs. 20/20, and if so, by any significant degree?

Perhaps I was too general about the suspension modes as my selection is greatly dependent on my driving mood. I tend stay off off Dynamic if I have passengers as the ride quality difference is apparent on the 20's and low sidewalls. When driving solo on freeways I set the suspension to Dynamic often, especially when I'd like to get somewhere sooner than later.

I believe both Dynamic and Automatic lower the car another 10mm past their standard height if at 70 or above for more than a minute?

mishar

You are right about wheelwells. Rears are a bit lower.

Talking about Dynamic setting - that's where the most of ride quality difference is with my new tires (other tread). Now I use it around city where I hated it before.

Handling with 20/20 setup should be better but I think nobody in this world can sense that. Bottoming wise would be the same.

Not sure if additional high speed lowering kicks in on 70 mph. If it is same as European it should be at higher speed, well in the ticket zone.

ModestW12

I can't remember exactly when it drops other than I know it's above 65mph limit typical on California highways. Might me 80mph, which is certainly in the ticket zone but also at the flow of traffic on certain days around here.

I'll look it up in the manual soon and post unless someone on this board beats me to it.

UPDATE: Looked it up and the speed is 75mph for more than 30 seconds. For standard suspensions, it drops 25mm in comfort and automatic, and in comfort another 5mm in addition on the already 20mm lower ride height for the equivalent total.

What's interesting and news to me is that for sport suspensions, the drop is only 5mm beyond the already 20mm lowered default ride height compared to a standard suspension. Both suspension modes yield the same absolute minimum ride height.