jschick

any one ever dug into a v6 with bent valves? I am looking at doing this job myself but would like to know if anyone has experience with this and how much damage am I likley looking at? how many valves per cyl are their and how many are likely bent? do they generally bust valve seats and cause head damage or just valves? is it likely they put a hole in a piston? I bought this car this way, the previous owner replaced the water pump and T belt and the tensioners only to find it did indeed bend valves. since it has a new pump on it I would preffer to just do valves and be done but if it is liklely to have causes more serious problems I may just get a engine??
thanks

Edd W

head gasket.

It turned out the leak was the valley cover bolts needing a slight tightening but the job was quite interesting anyway.

I would think you will have just bent valves and maybe just a few marks on the tops of the pistons.

Remember to fit new valve oild seals.

jschick

thanks, I do not have the manual on this car, but hope to find one. Does anyone by chance have a diagram of the heads and timming setups they can email or post? I hope to start pulling it apart tonight and see just what happened, I found some heads for $350 seems cheap, but if I only need $150 in valves then would hate to order them. my concern is the guy i got it from just had a shop replace the belt, pump and tensioners, and I see the cam pulleys don't have timing marks but a funny shapped washer for timming, do these washers go on only one way or can they be screwed up, can I trust they are correct or do I need to buy some special alighnment tools????

Maini

the following URL<ul><li><a href="http://www.netwiz.net/~jds/files/a6_links.html#audio">http://www.netwiz.net/~jds/files/a6_links.html#audio</a</li></ul>

jschick

well only took 1 hr to pull the intake and ign coils, should be a real easy job to rebuild the heads, at this point I see no problems. I will need the torque specs for the heads. I will be removing the cams to replace the bent valves, the intakes look ok, some may be slightly bent but I don't see any that took a major hit(looking down through the intake) so far only 2 allen bolts were stripped on the drives valve cover (someone must have played with that one). My guess is anywhere from 1-3 hrs on Sat I will have both heads off, depending on how long it takes to remove the 2 stripped bolts and to remove the manifolds. the only stuggle so far was the EGR valve. I see no reason not to do this yourself. I do need to pick up a set of torques sockets to remove the head bolts so I am stuck for now. And I would really like soe diagrams or specs, haven't found any locally

Edd W

because they are located only by friction fit onto a taper and you cannot re-fir them without the proper factory jig to hold everything in the correct place.

I have the head torque figure at home and if you cannot find them, I can provide them later, I'm 7hours~ in front of you so I'm off home now 4:30pm ish.

You should use new head bolts every time because they are stretch ones and my tightening figures are for new un-stretched bolts. You could just do them up to about 80 to 85ftlbs and it would not be far out though? I do not think the bolts would break.

I hope you marked the pulleys before removing the timing belt?

PS Forget the manual, you really do not need it, there is nothing really complex.

While the inlet manifold is off, it is woorth checking the operation of the vacuum controlled flap that opens at about 3000rpm to shorten the inlet tract. Its should operating lever should move easily or it will stay stucj shut and you will loose top end - assuming it ever runs again!

Have fun.

jschick

thanks, for the info, I do plan on ordering the new head bolts as well. I was supprized to see how quickly and easily this is going since I have been told by many that the bently manual is a must???? I have seen nothing that a little common sence can't figure out.. except the cam sprockets, that has me worried, I have not removed them but I have marked them well. I assume they will have to come off to replace the cam seals though. I have not decided to remove them or just forget about changing the cam seals, they currently don't leak......any thoughts
thanks

Edd W

when you re-assemble it so that the seal is not working on a new face I think they should be ok. They were on mine and it has now done 144k.

If they start to leak, you can always fit them later without too much work.

Check the condition of the idler bearing. If it is noisy or in any rough, fit a new one.

I would not buy any parts until you have both heads off.

Be very careful with the valve guide oil seals. It is possible to break the top of the valve giuide off when removing the old ones, twist them as you oull with some good quality grips - not mole locking type because you could crush the top as well.

Make sure you use the protection covers when pushing the new ones down over the valve tops and onto the guide.

Check the length of the new valve stem against the old ones and grind the top if it more than about 25thou longer as a guess.

Make sure you grind the new valves in well as well.

jschick

well got both heads off and found it to be a very easy job so far, I have about 3.5 to maybe 4 hrs involved in the removal, all 6 exhaust valves ore bent but only 2 are visiably bent the other 4 leak but are hardly bent at all. so looks like I will have about $300 in the rebuild, valves, gasket set, bolts seals etc. (the car has a new water pump and timming belt with tensioners and pulleys) I still need the torque specs on the heads and the cam bolts???????
THANKS
Jon

Edd W

Tighten all bots to 40Nm, then go up to 60Nm then turn all an additional 180°.

The sequence for the eight bolts in each head is - imagine giving the bolts a number starting at 1 being the front inner bolt and 2 being front outer bolt going up to eight being the outer rear. A sort cross pattern.

Tighten in the following sequence 3, 6, 4, 5, 1, 8, 7, 2 - the same sequence is used for both heads.

When you turn the last 180° it seems as if the car is going to turn round as you tighten. It is horrible and feels mechanically wrong, but just tighten away, it is the correct setting providing you have the correct, new 'stretch' bolts. Ignore the creaks of protest from the bolts.

Make sure you have cleaned out all the thread holes in the block or you can get an hydraulic lock which can crack the block!

The can carrier caps are 17Nm and the cam cover 10Nm.