DFS

Son has just taken delivery of a '93 90CS, and on the short list is front strut replacement. Don't have a manual yet, so doing a little research online. I see a couple of different looking parts at some of the online sources. One is called a strut assembly, and looks like it has mounting brackets welded to the tubes. The other is called a strut cartridge, and looks like it might be a drop in. Is one or the other of these an incorrect illustration?

I know I've read that some of the later cars have a drop in cartridge. Am I going to get lucky with the '93? Not my usual luck, but I can always hope. )

Is there a brand preference for a stock replacement? No suspension tweaks planned in the near future.

Thanks!
DFS

SCarGo02

All Audis since the late 70s that use struts have inserts that are replaceable.

DFS

Does that mean we just remove the top plate and the cartridge, dropping in the new one.

Last struts I did were on my daughter's Toyota. Those required removing the springs and fitting them to the new strut with the associated scarry spring compressor and very tight suspension attachments.

None of this is necessary with the Audi?

Thanks!
dfs

SCarGo02

...it disconnects from the wheel bearing/hub assembly and through the top of the engine bay under the cap for the strut tower.

Springs have to be compressed, strut insert removed, etc.

It's also a good time to replace your strut mount/bearings while you're in there.

Mr Dre

Not too bad. Remove the strut assemblt from the car. Carefully compress the spring-using a socket that you're tgoona toss-cut away the sides to make a two toothed keyway-take the top bolt off-using an allen wrench to hold the center of the strut. Remove the spring, cap and bearing assembly. Here you'll need a vice and map gas tourch. The cap that holds the strut insert in gets rusted on. Soak it with penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes. Heat the hell out of the cap and then use a large pipe wrench to turn it off. Mike came right off with a little help from the heat. wire brush off the threads when they cool off-map gas gets it hotter than hell-cool tool for $34 at Home Depot. I got my inserts from discount auto parts-I think they were about 85 a piece. Get the good bearings and new cap nuts-you can search around on google for a few differnt sites that have these parts. You dont need the strut stops if you get the Bilstein HD inserts-they're built in. Reverse he process and check your tie rod ends while you're in there. Took about 3 hours being overly careful.

Merkin

to unscrew the rusted cap off the insert

lots of work, high temp torch speeds things up a bit.

Luxus Panzer

he he he
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BBQPorkBao

It was safer and didn't require brute force.

For the top nut, I tried using an offset box end wrench. But with 150k miles on original strut, everything was frozen solid. All in all, an $80 cordless impact wrench from pepboys saved the day.

the only special tool needed was for the slotted nut, which I made from an old socket.

Mr Dre

Definately have to compress the spring-careful cause it can take your head off. I ended up putting the spring compressor brackets on whit the car was on the ground-weight of the car compressed the spring-jack it up and then remove from the car. Mapp gas worked great for me to get the top cap off-used a large pipe wrench with no extension.