removing axle.. how to?
#1
removing axle.. how to?
Can any one give me an idea on how to remove the axle on the passenger front? Totally shot, i have the tie rod end off, do i have to remove the lower control arm and thats it? Not sure, any one done this '89 90Q
Thanks,
Anthony
Thanks,
Anthony
#2
Not too hard
You will need to remove the six capscrews that hold the inner cv joint to the transmission output flange. They take a "triple-square" tools commonly available from most FLAPS.
On the outer end, you need to undo the bolt that goes through the end of the axle shaft. Once undone, you only need to turn the front strut (like turning the wheel) to the left for the passenger side, which moves the shaft enough to free it from the inner flange. You should not have to pull either the tie rod or the ball joint. If it does give you trouble, pull the bolt holding in the ball joint at the bottom of the strut, then you can move the bottom of the strut out enough to give you more room.
On the outer end, you need to undo the bolt that goes through the end of the axle shaft. Once undone, you only need to turn the front strut (like turning the wheel) to the left for the passenger side, which moves the shaft enough to free it from the inner flange. You should not have to pull either the tie rod or the ball joint. If it does give you trouble, pull the bolt holding in the ball joint at the bottom of the strut, then you can move the bottom of the strut out enough to give you more room.
#3
Is that all?
Just turn the wheel and it will pop out? No need to remove anything but the nut that holds the axle? Is that right? I mean besides the 6 cap screws.
Anthony '89 90Q
Anthony '89 90Q
#4
Might find it easier to pop the balljoint out the bottom.
Gives you more room to work with.
But ya,
pull the center bolt, then the 6 12-point bolts (DON'T USE A REGULAR HEX TOOL). Get the proper 12-point hex tool... unless you like removing stripped bolts. Spend lots of time cleaning all the crap out of the bolt heads too.
Replace the center bolt when reinstalling... it's a stretch bolt. If you attempt to torque to spec, you'll either break the bolt (done that), or stretch it beyond it's yield point... so it will just continue to stretch and always be loose... causing the wheel bearing to fail faster.
But ya,
pull the center bolt, then the 6 12-point bolts (DON'T USE A REGULAR HEX TOOL). Get the proper 12-point hex tool... unless you like removing stripped bolts. Spend lots of time cleaning all the crap out of the bolt heads too.
Replace the center bolt when reinstalling... it's a stretch bolt. If you attempt to torque to spec, you'll either break the bolt (done that), or stretch it beyond it's yield point... so it will just continue to stretch and always be loose... causing the wheel bearing to fail faster.
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