My car is finally at the shop having the stereo done
#22
I did...now hear me out, please...
On a public forum (or just in general) you will always get differing opinions, some agree with you, and some don't.
With that said, I'd like to point out several things.
First, I'm not sure why you said "I posted such a negative comment like you did". I started off with "impressive", which I was impressed with everything on your list. You have gone out of your way to think outside the box, and use components that are not everyday used in a car. Just for me the two 12's seemed over-the-top (again personal opinion) but you shouldn't take that as such a heavy negative comment.
I also did not say that 10's are the <b>only</b> way to go, just simply the way to go. That is my opinion, some will agree, some won't. If I said that they were the only way to go, then 100% I would be wrong or ignorant as you stated.
I have many, many years experience designing/building and tuning SQ cars. I was a certified IASCA judge as well. My personal experience is for 10" woofers in sound quality. They are usually more controlled and less boomy. Can 12's work, yes, of course they can, (I have used them myself) but they usually take more work to blend with the system. I have seen more mismatched sound systems then well blended ones using 12's on a percentage basis.
My initial impression is that with (2) 12's going in, they will be overpowering for your 6.5" components. Maybe you like your music sub-bass heavy, that's your preference, and I can understand that.
Lastly, thank you for your compliments on my work, I do appreciate that. I will be completing my sub-woofer insatll very shortly and will be adding it to my install posts for all to critique.
Friends, I hope?
With that said, I'd like to point out several things.
First, I'm not sure why you said "I posted such a negative comment like you did". I started off with "impressive", which I was impressed with everything on your list. You have gone out of your way to think outside the box, and use components that are not everyday used in a car. Just for me the two 12's seemed over-the-top (again personal opinion) but you shouldn't take that as such a heavy negative comment.
I also did not say that 10's are the <b>only</b> way to go, just simply the way to go. That is my opinion, some will agree, some won't. If I said that they were the only way to go, then 100% I would be wrong or ignorant as you stated.
I have many, many years experience designing/building and tuning SQ cars. I was a certified IASCA judge as well. My personal experience is for 10" woofers in sound quality. They are usually more controlled and less boomy. Can 12's work, yes, of course they can, (I have used them myself) but they usually take more work to blend with the system. I have seen more mismatched sound systems then well blended ones using 12's on a percentage basis.
My initial impression is that with (2) 12's going in, they will be overpowering for your 6.5" components. Maybe you like your music sub-bass heavy, that's your preference, and I can understand that.
Lastly, thank you for your compliments on my work, I do appreciate that. I will be completing my sub-woofer insatll very shortly and will be adding it to my install posts for all to critique.
Friends, I hope?
#23
"NO" logic...hmmm...real time analysis would say different...
..this is a debate that has been going on for over a decade, and the results are <i>usually</i> in favor of the 10 being more "controlled" and tighter than say it's counterpart in a 12 or 15. Can a 12 or 15 go down lower? Sure. Does it always make it have better sound quality? No.
#24
Question: What does more controlled and tighter bass look like on an RTA?
I wasn't aware that was something that can be visually verified on an RTA. It is such a subjective term in nature.
#26
Main reason is I think around 1000W is all I need for a great sounding system.
I'm going to try the minimalist approach with my system and go with a nice component set run actively for front stage and a single sub. I've done systems with under 500W that sounded amazing so I think I'll be OK. The focus on my car will be to make it a great performing driver, so I want to keep the weight as low as possible. I love music though and really need to hear it accurately so I do need a system but don't want it to draw to much power or be the overwhelming focus of the car. Finally, going megawatt costs more $$$ that could be going towards performance parts for the car instead.
#27
Ah, so you fell for my play on words...
.."real time" analysis in a car vs. laboratory testing using an osciliscope.
Same car setup-head unit/seperates/amps. Build a box to spec for 10". Then the same for a 12", same brand and series of speaker.
Just did this as recently as last month. Demanding client wanted clean and loud bass in his C5 Vette. He chose the JL 13w7. Built the box to spec. It was loud, but a bit "off". I suggested we try it with my recommendation, 2 JL 10's...tighter and did the trick.
Same car setup-head unit/seperates/amps. Build a box to spec for 10". Then the same for a 12", same brand and series of speaker.
Just did this as recently as last month. Demanding client wanted clean and loud bass in his C5 Vette. He chose the JL 13w7. Built the box to spec. It was loud, but a bit "off". I suggested we try it with my recommendation, 2 JL 10's...tighter and did the trick.
#28
Even on an Oscope that would be difficult to see.
You're basically looking at the same thing on an Oscope as you are on an RTA. The difference is that on an Oscope you looking at a graphical representation with respect to time while on an RTA you're looking at it with respect to frequency.
For audio purposes, the RTA typically gives you more information in terms of response while the Oscope will show you magnitude which is helpful if you're looking for signal distortion.
As far as the 13W7 vs the 2-10s, that's more of a subjective test rather than a cut and dry difference between the response of a particular size driver.
For audio purposes, the RTA typically gives you more information in terms of response while the Oscope will show you magnitude which is helpful if you're looking for signal distortion.
As far as the 13W7 vs the 2-10s, that's more of a subjective test rather than a cut and dry difference between the response of a particular size driver.
#29
I do actually understand your thought process, but I really hope deep down inside you know that
your original statement is just flat out incorrect.
Your client? Big deal! What does that prove?
I'm of the opinion that a well built 12" is the sweet spot for output vs box size which actually plays much more of a role than your statement about sound quality.
Nonetheless, believe what YOU want, you just don't push it on others...
Your client? Big deal! What does that prove?
I'm of the opinion that a well built 12" is the sweet spot for output vs box size which actually plays much more of a role than your statement about sound quality.
Nonetheless, believe what YOU want, you just don't push it on others...
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