Jamez

Hi.

I've busted a rod bearing on my AEB 1.8T, so I'll have to a quite big amount of work anyways, so I am considering what to do about it.

What I have now is a gt28r turbo, FMIC and so on, giving about 340chp. But stock head and bottom. I do not have the forged crank.

So my first option is removing engine or the subframe, remove the bottom pan and change only the bearings.

Next option is removing engine and change the rods to some forged Verdis (my shop has 4 left from a audi 5cyl that busted one), take of 0.5mm on the pistons (reduce comp), do some small portwork to head/manifolds, change piston rings, timing chain, head gasket and some other small things.

The last option is building a stroked and bored 2.0 from a GTI 2.0 16V, with forged crank and new pistons, using my 20V head.

Either ways I need a bigger MAF-housing as the one I have is maxing out and is what caused me the problems in the first place. It maxed out, and the load jumps down, and then engine was running lean and we got some detonation

I dont really have too much money right now, so the first or second option is the only way I can get the car on the road this summer.
If Im building a 2.0, I would have to get parts over time, and do alot myself.

Does any of you have advice for me?
Thanks.

Jamez.

jgoot

If you want more displacement, it would be best to stroke your 1.8 to 2.0, of course you could be refering to that and I just didn't read it right.

Jamez

block not tall enough...
Better getting the 159mm rods...
It would work, but it wouldnt be quite strong enough I believe...

A built 1.8 would handle more RPMs though, and would cost less. It might be better using some more money for cams and headwork, rather than extra for fitting the 2.0 block...

Jamez

Use some eagle or Auto verdi rods (144mm)

take pistons from at 2.2t 5cyl audi, 81mm and grind them down to get CR 8.5:1
They have 20mm pins, and handle 500hp.

And Ill keep my crank and block, and manifold and turbo for now.

Ill do some portwork to mye AEB euro head, but leave the lifters and valves and cams stock for now.

Ill consider getting my FMIC intercooler rebuilt to 3" inlet/outlet, and getting a VR6 TB.

Any other things I should change/remember?

Thanks.

xr4tic

I'd be afraid of making the piston material thinner, it wouldn't be able to take as much heat, and would be more susceptible to detonation.

Unless you want to be rebuilding your engine again later down the road, then I suggest doing it right the first time.

xr4tic

that's what I'm running right now. No way they'd work with the stock block.

Stroking the 1.8 isn't a bad idea, you're basically turning it into a 2.0, using factory VW/Audi parts. Sure, the Rod/Stroke ratio isn't going to be optimum, but the 10% increase in displacement will more than make up for it.

True, a 1.8 can flow as much as a 2.0, if you run the RPMs higher, but the valvetrain will be your limiting factor. And the higher revs will be harder on your motor.

Between running 7500 RPM on a 2.0, and running 8400 RPM on a 1.8, I'd pick the 2.0

Jamez

hold up?
They'll have to have a 9.1mm different compression height

xr4tic

the TDi diesels run the 95.5mm crank, and it might not be good for a turbo application if it puts the piston pin too close to the rings

Jamez

95.5 x 81 = 1968

but a 95.5 will have to much sideways forces on the sylinder walls and will be a bad setup for high power...

xr4tic

which gives 1980cc with a 92.8mm crank.

I'm running 83mm bore on mine. If you get new pistons, and new rings, you need to hone the cylinders anyways, might as well have them bored out at the same time.