MP4.2+6.0

...the same picture and text here from the SSP I was referring to. And I see you have a picture of the magnet too.

Since my original posting, I realized you could likely just reverse the bars front to back (if same width) or by turning front one 180 degrees. Audi says not to because of of this same interlock, and I think may have the holes drilled a bit differently to prevent it. But, can always be modded if you know what you are doing...

Whether to do this or not comes down to the usual "proceed at your own risk." Meanwhile of course, beyond owner manual admonitions, my 300HP 4.2 A6 has no such system whatsoever w/ its factory bars, nor does it even have ESP [came out a few months later] My 450HP W12 has a set of factory bars too w/ no such system and ESP. They both can carry similar roof loads. For that matter, I don't think I have ever even kicked in ESP on the W12 here in sunny CA. Or in the snowy Sierra's for that matter--other than maybe the one time I (carefully) literally floored it on an icy upslope with snow tires to see its response. Of course that was basically just the braked traction control element kicking in. I've driven enough older wagons and minivans too to know placing the front bar far forward in its "rest" (non used) position isn't ideal either for either wind noise or fuel economy. It's not great for either, but somewhat further back is better for that. The Toyota minivan manual for example goes to the trouble of suggesting where to move the bars to if not being used.

Up to you to decide, but it is probably either some TUV type certifying thing to ship them with the car new, or perhaps more likely an attempt to differentiate the vehicle in the safety advertising one upmanship. But since the bars are about a dime a dozen on eBay, I would say many an owner doesn't even have to clue here, let alone probably drive it anywhere near the ESP safety nanny limits.

Parsec

MP4: Now I'm really confused because someone else posted their wheel gap was 3.3" which is 1.2" lower than the stock 4.5" wheel gap on the Q5 (as measured in Thunderdent's build thread). A 21" tire/wheel combo is still the same diameter as a 18" tire/wheel combo, so the smaller wheel gap must imply a drop.

spijun

The difference in height between the wheels 18", 19", 20", 21" not exist
Actually exists but is negligible from 737mm to 741mm, only 4mm






Exist two models of suspension which is built into the SQ5.
One is standard(more rigid suspension S) and the other is lower for 25mm
You can check it in your service book which model is fitted to your vehicle
Codes:
-1BD
-2MT

MP4.2+6.0

I'm now not sure, but variously:

1. I don't have a good reference point. I don't know the history of the vehicle you are using as a reference point. Mine is on a boat somewhere (I hope) returning form Europe, but its a Hybrid with its own Audi U.S. story and confusion about lowering or not for the U.S. spec. compared to the Euro spec (where Audi says it is dropped per the German brochure dimensional pecs). Meanwhile, if you want to go by the tape measure route, isn't it a lot easier and more reliable just to go to a dealership lot/delivery area with SQ5's and other motor varieties and just measure them on site and back to back? That gives consistency in approach and the measurerer's data/judgment (viewing angle, the tire tread roll off point, etc.) Even the first pictures posted seemed off angle enough I wasn't sure I could read the tape completely accurately or as a benchmark against others. BTW, simply measuring from ground to top of fender well is easier and eliminates the subjectivity around reading the tape relative to the tire edge and where you define that point to be. See next point on why wheel (non) variable can be eliminated.

2. If the wheels are any of the stock fitments, focusing on them at all is just noise. All the running diameters of the tires are essentially the same as just about 29", and any small differences are way below the drop measurement being questioned/debated. The wheel diameter just goes up or down as the aspect ratio changes (and sometimes the width). The only real item that needs to be confirmed here w/out yet further nuances is are the wheels and tires stock or non-stock.

3. If there is a difference, it is in the shocks/struts and springs from the parts diagrams I reviewed (and were posted here previously via spijun, plus some of which are on line separately), and not elsewhere in the suspension. Those springs and shocks/struts are kind of a black box to try to track down that just point to things like color banding on the springs to distinguish them. Not relevant to ride height itself, but I have tied off in prior posts that the roll bars (which also affect suspension firmness) don't vary across the Q5's and SQ.

4. From spijun's info in various posts, even on QS5's in Europe there is apparently both a lowered flavor and an unlowered flavor. That can explain how I could have taken (and posted) pictures of an SQ on the Ingolstadt showroom floor and another outside that sure didn't look lowered to me.

5. That nets to two suggested approaches left: (i) take the time to look at the build stickers for the option codes spijun has posted (either on the vehicle or in the warranty book). Those build stickers give the true story, and pre-VIN tracking they used to be the definitive way you would pull the info. for stuff like this when it came to parts replacement; (ii) still anecdotal, but get some side by side measurements from the same person at a dealer with the SQ5 and others. Again, just use ground height to top of fender to keep it simple; it's also how we do it for VAG COM height adjustment on things like the A8's where you can mod the ride height electronically to the air units.

yeshdolph1

22 inch rims nice look. Can you post some more pictures. How did it change the ride?
Thanks