Q5/SQ5 MKII Discussion Discussion forum for the Second Generation Audi Q5 SUV

Knock Sensor 1 Location

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Old 04-25-2024, 12:50 PM
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Probably depends on how long your arms are. :-) People have changed the entire coolant pump without removing the IM. Removing the IM just makes it a lot easier. But if you have jacks (I own QuickJacks) and can go from underneath, it might be easier (or not, depending on what's in the way suspension and axle wise).
Old 05-07-2024, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SMac770
Also, it appears the workshop manual implies you can access it by just removing the thermostat on the coolant pump, no need to mess with the entire coolant pump. So that's a big plus for you.

But if you're going to start playing with your engine at this level, you really should have the actual Audi produced workshop manuals for it. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, VIN search, download all the PDFs for your VIN. This will all be in a doc referencing "1_8_2_0_ltr__4-valve_generation_II", but you want all the manuals. You never know when it'll say "remove piece X, as documented in one of the other manuals", etc. In the document list, hit the download square, not the view square. If it opens locally, then just save it.
I fixed the knock sensor, no longer giving error. Thank you for the help with that!

Car still has a knock

camshaft adaptation intake bank 1 phase position is -2.46* so timing is okay?

Any chance it was bad gas or bad spark plugs?
Any ideas about the knock please? Thank you
Old 05-07-2024, 08:48 PM
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"has knock occurring", no, I don't have any input on that. Are you concluding that because the knock voltages in the measuring values are high? Under what conditions? WOT, idling, etc. Could be carbon on the pistons, spark plugs, gas, etc. If there's not a diagnostic data to assess, you'd need someone to get in there with some actual troubleshooting.
Old 05-07-2024, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SMac770
"has knock occurring", no, I don't have any input on that. Are you concluding that because the knock voltages in the measuring values are high? Under what conditions? WOT, idling, etc. Could be carbon on the pistons, spark plugs, gas, etc. If there's not a diagnostic data to assess, you'd need someone to get in there with some actual troubleshooting.
I'll try and switch out the spark plugs tomorrow. It knocks sometimes when I rev it quickly, usually between 2k-3k rpm. Doesn't sound too bad at idle or if I rev it up slow. Has a few misfire codes.
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