Steelcoil

BTW, using torque wrenches as breaker bars can cause them to lose calibration. Harbor Freight has many breaker bars often on sale. I also have 3/8"-drive and 1/2"-drive extendable ratchets which I find useful. The ones they have now are both 1/4" and 3/8" in one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...het-70149.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...bar-58626.html

Anyway, good to have the bolts out and the new battery in. LOL on the BEM number that came with the battery. Nice!! Looks like the bolt does go through to the outside.

As far as coding goes, I am not familiar with OBDII (I use VCDS). Therefore I guess you will have to wait until tomorrow and talk to your mechanic first. If he does not already have a subscription, maybe buy one term on that device as a return favor.

jzw

My mechanic is 30 miles away. I hope not to make a trip there. He actually has other systems that can code the battery. But I just don't want to drive there.

@Wes, I remember you said you unplugged some wire next to the negative terminal. I didn't see a wire there. Is it the electrical plug thingy?

-Wes-

So, on this image here, which is from a 2013 Audi Q7 (gasoline), the connector is at the lower right of frame, sticking out from the large black box that is adjacent to the negative battery post connector. If you are looking at it from your driver door, it is on the left side of the battery (negative post) and the connector points toward you.

jzw

Thanks. Just to confirm, is this the one you talk about (I circled it in red)? I unplugged it first. Then thought it might be needed for some other purposes. I put in back on in the end.

-Wes-

Yep; that's it!