Dudeness30

looks like fun. How long do you think the install will take? Car will be out of service for a minute lol. Post your progress, it will be interesting.

dreadlocks

Fitting the heater unit and plumbing up the fuel to it will just be a few hours I think.. thats the easy part, I might do that before wiring gets here but if I do that I wont have any heat at all until its wired up but it wont be out of service.

Getting the wiring is a lil more work, gotta pull wipers and rain tray and then try to tap into the CAN wires laying on your back up behind the dash.. but its not that bad it looks, only big things this whole project needs removed is the rain tray and the rear seats (for standpipe)

dreadlocks

Webasto Dosing Pump DP30.2 w/Noise Dampener



and here's a shot from under my car showing location of fuel lines, where the pump goes and the cutout for the parking exhaust.. may be more difficult if you got OEM exhaust.

dreadlocks

Wiring Harness is here, everything is here to get started installing this.. but one last hitch, the Kufatec harness for TRegg's is wired the same as our Audi's (am gonna verify first) but it has an Espar heater and we have a Webasto.. so the plugs to the heater are physically different.. but Ive sourced down the proper plugs after scouring through a damn novel of wiring diagrams, they are commonly used elsewhere in the vehicle so they can be found over here.

I'm going to start with the fuel system, installing the standpipe, dosing pump, and running the fuel lines up to the front.. thats a heavy part of the install, so hopefully I can get that done and put back together while I'm waiting on the correct connections to convert this wiring harness.. the plugs would be hard to get too w/the heater in the vehicle, so I'd rather plug all the wiring in then slide the whole thing into the fender instead of pretending to be a gynecologist trying to plug it in later.

google doc been updated with all relevant info and sources

Here's the harness, that brown and black plug need to be changed


and here's what the heater needs


Proper Plugs:6N0927997A & 7M0973119


#1 & #3 in this link: https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+q7.../971-971081/#1

The wiring harness is all nicely labeled and comes with everything needed to plugin the remote module later on w/no effort.. everything is pre-crimped and assembled as can be, but some connectors have not been fully assembled so you can pull them through grommets in firewall and whatnot without the big plug causing issues.. really well thought out for a retrofit harness.. worth the money over trying to build this myself.

CAN HIGH & CAN LOW



You get an extension cable for the recirculation pump, your gonna take the existing one out and use the one on the heater has, but its in a new location so the old wiring wont reach.. your also taking the heater shutoff valve out, but that original plug will remain floating as the new N279 valve is wired up to the Webasto through the harness, pay attention to which is which because they both have the same plug, a wiring diagram is included in the main doc, consult it if you want more info on how its wired.

dreadlocks

Wiring Continued

Electric Water Pump w/Extension Harness:


N279 Valve wired to main harness


Antenna for Remote Controll Unit:


Whole Shebang:

dreadlocks

Good News everybody, we already got a standpipe for the parking heater.. take out back passenger (right) seat, its the 1/3rd one so its easy to get out.. and here's our fuel tap, never have to crack the tank open or smell nothing.. just need a fitting for it, I think I got the right one coming tomorrow.

The clean port w/cap removed:

Cap on as I found it

dreadlocks

Fuel pipes coming out of tank, the lil black one is for the webasto


Fuel Pump mounts in the driveshaft tunnel, mounting is already there.. needs a short M6 bolt + locking washer to secure.. run the bolt through the captive nuts a few times first to clean it out, its full of dirt more than likely.


Fuel line and Parking heater Exhaust outlet. I broke with the main fuel lines and crossed the exhaust down same route as AdBlue feed line behind the tin and down into the side channel that feeds to fender.

Exhaust needs 2 more M6 bolts, the holes are again already there and tapped.. just gotta bolt it down.

So far I've got the fuel line ran except for that fitting.. this was super easy, not the least bit difficult, thanks to my air suspension I did not even need a jack.. all the mounting and securing points are there, didnt even use any zip ties, really cool when its OEM+

dreadlocks

And here's where the magic happens.. all this is going.. drivers side fender once the liner has been removed:


you can see exhaust and fuel lines already ran, right now I'm trying to figure out how to get a wire from here to behind the dash.. looks like im digging deep into rain tray.

To install the main heater we need 6 hose shutoff clamps, 4 on the bottom, 2 on the top.

dreadlocks

Now for wiring, by far the biggest PITA of the whole retrofit.. most of it is this, getting to the firewall passthrough location and buttoning it all back up again.

Take off the plastic vertical deflector, kinda pita.. 2 bolts.. I got it out w/out removing rain tray.. but I might have to take rain tray out to get it back in heh.. YMMV.


You'll find the unused nipple, reach in and cut it off.. Its right behind the downpipe and to the side of the brake booster.


Here I cut it off and ran some white fuel line through it to make it really visible:



Inside it comes through right above the fuel pedal, its really hard to see but its there where the white fuel line leads.



And thats how we get the wiring from the engine bay, to the inside.. this was the most difficult part of the install.. finding the spot and getting the wires through without ****ing em up was a total pita.. ran out of time to actually hook anything up today.. This will go quicker for those of you not exploring and taking things apart looking for the way through.

dreadlocks

Wiring Redux

So now that we got the wires into the cabin, we've got 3 basic bundles outlined below:

First Bundle for Remote Unit, I hadda cut the ring loop off the ground to feed it through the firewall.. no big deal, just crimp a new ground on..


2nd Bundle is the CAN Bus wiring, keep these twisted all the way up to where we wire em in.


and lastly, the big white wire is power for the heater, installs into the fusebox.


I'm not going to worry about the remote wires too much, since I dont have the remote control unit now.. I will wire them up and terminate them for later, thats all documented in the Kufatec manual in the study guide.. the control unit needs power/gnd and the 3rd pin is a signal wire that goes all the way back to the webasto.

The Can wires OTOH, well that's a whole new adventure.. we gotta take out the module wiring, seperate it, and put the correct pins on those leads..

So you'll find T46a CAN Disconnect plug in fuse box, most of the can devices connect here and are bridged.. this plug lets you disconnect em all and test em individually when troubleshooting, and behind it is all the CAN wires.. so we need to take that whole thing out, its a PITA as the parking brake is in the way.. you gotta pull the wire off parking brake to get the handle out, then remove the 3 screws to get this out.. there's a pink locking pin on the right that you slide up and it snaps right out once you have clearance.



Yank the pink locking pin outta the middle w/some pliers



Now we gotta take this plug apart..



Ta-Da!


Now I need to go to the VW Dealer and get some repair wires that are pre-crimped to this (000979009E), solder em onto the Kufatec harness and slide em into this plug.. any position after 17 is fine, they are all bridged.. but pin 17 is free on mine so I'm using it.. but, its sunday.. so I went ahead and put the rain tray and everything I could back together, what a total bitch that tray is to get back in and aligned.. this was by far the most difficult part of the job.

I neglected to take any photos of me installing the fuses, but if you've made it this far its not that hard.. pull the bracket out, crack the top row open, move the slider latch, drop the 2 new circuits in and reverse procedure.

This retrofit requires absolutely no splicing or cutting of the OEM harness, this whole project is copacetic.