Rear brakes DIY tip....
03-26-2007, 08:23 AM
#21
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Re: on the B6 A4 they sure do, why do you disagree?
I don't disagree that that may be the case with B6 A4's, however it shouldn't be the case. See my post above for explanation.
03-26-2007, 09:54 AM
#22
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How much did you use for the bleed? I'm thinking 4 L should cover a full flush/bleed, yes?
I was also about to order ATE super blue. ECS sells it, but I'm wondering if I should stay away and try something like Motul?
03-26-2007, 10:04 AM
#23
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use the fluid you like. 1L is more than enough...
I had about 1/5 left. If you have a manual and bleed your clutch slave then 1L will just do it. If you want to be safe, get 2L.
03-26-2007, 01:55 PM
#25
thats how the dealers do it, and on drum brakes there is no other way to remove the cover
wheel bearings take few tons of pressure to press into the hub assembly, and just as much to press the hub into the bearing. each bearing can take up to 10000 psi of pressure everytime you hit a pot hole. no 16oz hammer can do that.
secondedly, prying a rotor by the edges can actually crack it and pieces can shoot off from the force. figure B6s are relative new cars with new parts chance of that are smaller.
secondedly, prying a rotor by the edges can actually crack it and pieces can shoot off from the force. figure B6s are relative new cars with new parts chance of that are smaller.
03-26-2007, 02:00 PM
#26
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No, I didn't even use 1 full liter...and I let it flow past the point it was done.
Brake system is not that big - look at the brrake lines and how thin they are. Reservoir and calipers is what takes up the most fluid in the system.
03-26-2007, 04:39 PM
#27
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B6 fluid capacity (for MT) is 2.0L, so you'd have to use at least that for flush.
Bleeding is less, but if you're flushing whole system (including clutch on MT cars), you're safe with just over 2.0L. On the Motuls and brands sold by the .5L, that can be expensive for those of us changing fluid after every few track days.
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