2011 2.0T issue!
08-15-2018, 09:27 AM
#1
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2011 2.0T issue!
My girls A4 suddenly turned off after she drove 10 feet on her way home last night. So she started it again and hit the gas. Engine immediately shut off. Now it's hard to get it started. If I leave the key in accessory mode for a minute or 2, it will start. The it either dies on it's own, or it dies when I hit the gas. It will not go above 2000 rpms. I heard these fuel pumps are notorious for going bad (that's what the service tech told me at the audi dealer near me. Terrible. My 95 F150 has it's original fuel pump at 210,000 miles. They just don't make them like they used to). But when I put the car in accessory mode I can hear a click near the rear seat. Also, how do you remove the rear seat cushion?
So, I am wondering what I can do. I tried to find the fuel filter (someone said it was near the driver side side skirt behind a cover) but couldn't find it after removing the cover. All I saw were brake lines. I also heard it's a part of the fuel pump. Dammit.
Does this sound like the fuel pump in the tank, on top of the engine, or something different? I believe its fuel related since it keeps cutting out and feels like there isn't fuel pressure.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
So, I am wondering what I can do. I tried to find the fuel filter (someone said it was near the driver side side skirt behind a cover) but couldn't find it after removing the cover. All I saw were brake lines. I also heard it's a part of the fuel pump. Dammit.
Does this sound like the fuel pump in the tank, on top of the engine, or something different? I believe its fuel related since it keeps cutting out and feels like there isn't fuel pressure.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
08-15-2018, 12:59 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Well, it's always better to start with some codes than random guessing. But if you don't have a ross-tech.com cable and their VCDS or ODBeleven, or a generic scan tool at least (can you rent those at AutoZone?), then it is what it is.
The rear seat bottom is easy, there's a loop from the cushion frame sticking down into the seat mount on each side. Reach under the cushion edge basically where it would be between your legs as you were sitting in the left and right seats and just yank up. But first, you should remove the LATCH plastic covers at the back of the seat bottom. Pull the middle cap off and then they push down and slide off. You're supposed to replace those plastic caps that the loops sit into, but I never did.
The low pressure fuel pump sits on the right side under the seat cushion. Not sure what a left side clicking would be, unless you're hearing relays from the back left corner. Note, a lot of stuff clicks and such when you turn the switched 12v on and off. Lot of loud relays in that car.
You can measure fuel rail (the high pressure rail from the HPFP to the injectors) pressure, but not sure if you can measure volume, with VCDS. Should be between 4 (idle) and 15 (floored) MPa.
Could be a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Actually, with VCDS you could check your camshaft timing chain adaptation. Do you know if that engine has the K rev tensioner? I don't know if chain stretch or loose tensioner would let you idle but not rev up.
You really want to check the codes.
The rear seat bottom is easy, there's a loop from the cushion frame sticking down into the seat mount on each side. Reach under the cushion edge basically where it would be between your legs as you were sitting in the left and right seats and just yank up. But first, you should remove the LATCH plastic covers at the back of the seat bottom. Pull the middle cap off and then they push down and slide off. You're supposed to replace those plastic caps that the loops sit into, but I never did.
The low pressure fuel pump sits on the right side under the seat cushion. Not sure what a left side clicking would be, unless you're hearing relays from the back left corner. Note, a lot of stuff clicks and such when you turn the switched 12v on and off. Lot of loud relays in that car.
You can measure fuel rail (the high pressure rail from the HPFP to the injectors) pressure, but not sure if you can measure volume, with VCDS. Should be between 4 (idle) and 15 (floored) MPa.
Could be a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Actually, with VCDS you could check your camshaft timing chain adaptation. Do you know if that engine has the K rev tensioner? I don't know if chain stretch or loose tensioner would let you idle but not rev up.
You really want to check the codes.
08-15-2018, 01:39 PM
#3
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Well, it's always better to start with some codes than random guessing. But if you don't have a ross-tech.com cable and their VCDS or ODBeleven, or a generic scan tool at least (can you rent those at AutoZone?), then it is what it is.
The rear seat bottom is easy, there's a loop from the cushion frame sticking down into the seat mount on each side. Reach under the cushion edge basically where it would be between your legs as you were sitting in the left and right seats and just yank up. But first, you should remove the LATCH plastic covers at the back of the seat bottom. Pull the middle cap off and then they push down and slide off. You're supposed to replace those plastic caps that the loops sit into, but I never did.
The low pressure fuel pump sits on the right side under the seat cushion. Not sure what a left side clicking would be, unless you're hearing relays from the back left corner. Note, a lot of stuff clicks and such when you turn the switched 12v on and off. Lot of loud relays in that car.
You can measure fuel rail (the high pressure rail from the HPFP to the injectors) pressure, but not sure if you can measure volume, with VCDS. Should be between 4 (idle) and 15 (floored) MPa.
Could be a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Actually, with VCDS you could check your camshaft timing chain adaptation. Do you know if that engine has the K rev tensioner? I don't know if chain stretch or loose tensioner would let you idle but not rev up.
You really want to check the codes.
The rear seat bottom is easy, there's a loop from the cushion frame sticking down into the seat mount on each side. Reach under the cushion edge basically where it would be between your legs as you were sitting in the left and right seats and just yank up. But first, you should remove the LATCH plastic covers at the back of the seat bottom. Pull the middle cap off and then they push down and slide off. You're supposed to replace those plastic caps that the loops sit into, but I never did.
The low pressure fuel pump sits on the right side under the seat cushion. Not sure what a left side clicking would be, unless you're hearing relays from the back left corner. Note, a lot of stuff clicks and such when you turn the switched 12v on and off. Lot of loud relays in that car.
You can measure fuel rail (the high pressure rail from the HPFP to the injectors) pressure, but not sure if you can measure volume, with VCDS. Should be between 4 (idle) and 15 (floored) MPa.
Could be a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Actually, with VCDS you could check your camshaft timing chain adaptation. Do you know if that engine has the K rev tensioner? I don't know if chain stretch or loose tensioner would let you idle but not rev up.
You really want to check the codes.
08-16-2018, 12:09 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
I'm not a career auto engine mechanic, so I have no experience insight to offer on that. If there's not information pointing to a direction of interest, I'd have to take it to a shop.
That there's no DTCs with a stalling engine, seems odd to me.
As for the fuel filter, yes, it's mounted to the low pressure pump in the fuel tank. It's pulled up through the cover you'll find under the right rear seat.
The info about the one on the underside of the car is in the service manual, but I assume it's either for the V6 or V8, or left over material from B7, or maybe only relevant to certain ROW regions.
It's not a hard thing to change, but you'll want the service manual docs or a good specific youtube vid or such. You can grab all the service PDFs for a day pass at erwin.audiusa.com.
You might ring your dealership and ask them to ask the engine tech if he has any initial thoughts on a DTC free stall when trying to rev above idle.
You'd have to remove the HPFP (intake side of the back end of the head), but it could be you might have a bad follower. The HPFP is pumped by being bumped by a cam lobe. Though that interface was much more of a problem on FSI (the belt driven 2.0T motors prior to B8; our "TFSI" is a TSI motor). And the HPFP, while still fine for me, is not an unheard of problem area for the TSI. I just don't know if you could have an injector or HPFP issue without a DTC.
That there's no DTCs with a stalling engine, seems odd to me.
As for the fuel filter, yes, it's mounted to the low pressure pump in the fuel tank. It's pulled up through the cover you'll find under the right rear seat.
The info about the one on the underside of the car is in the service manual, but I assume it's either for the V6 or V8, or left over material from B7, or maybe only relevant to certain ROW regions.
It's not a hard thing to change, but you'll want the service manual docs or a good specific youtube vid or such. You can grab all the service PDFs for a day pass at erwin.audiusa.com.
You might ring your dealership and ask them to ask the engine tech if he has any initial thoughts on a DTC free stall when trying to rev above idle.
You'd have to remove the HPFP (intake side of the back end of the head), but it could be you might have a bad follower. The HPFP is pumped by being bumped by a cam lobe. Though that interface was much more of a problem on FSI (the belt driven 2.0T motors prior to B8; our "TFSI" is a TSI motor). And the HPFP, while still fine for me, is not an unheard of problem area for the TSI. I just don't know if you could have an injector or HPFP issue without a DTC.
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