twentysevenlitres

G'day Guys!

I want to test for a possible parasitic power drain in my cars electrics.

I understand the switch for the door sensors is hidden within the door lock mechanism.
If I'm to test for current draw through the fuse panel, I need a way of not triggering the door sensor.
Is there a way of manually triggering the switch within the lock, or will using a screwdriver to relock the door work?

I didn't use the car for 3 days this weekend and I ended up with a completely flat battery to the point that the radio needs its code and the time/date reset on the dash.

Anyway, cheers for any help

Razman

I just read another thread on how to find a power "leak" - then yesterday my coworker said he is having the same issue (battery keeps dying overnight).

From memory, disconnect the positive lead from the battery. Put a volt meter between the positive battery terminal and the wire. If there is a leak, you will get a voltage reading.

Now, start pulling fuses until you see the reading go to zero. That circuit will be the leak culprit.

Sorry but I don't have a link, but you could probably Google this to validate the steps.

Raz

twentysevenlitres

I know how to find the leak (at least I think I do )!

I want to know how to keep the door sensors "closed"...


Parasitic power drain is detected using an Amp meter, not a voltage meter.
However, connecting the meter in series is correct though I will be disconnecting the negative terminal, not the positive one - less chance of arcing (which can damage my multimeter) and it doesn't matter if you touch the body accidently.
But to pull the fuses I need the (drivers in my case, passenger in most of yours) door open. However an open door will trigger lights which put their own drain on the system... Thus my Original Post.

twentysevenlitres

Ok, I now know how to trigger the door sensor so the car thinks it's closed when it's actually open...
Remarkably simple, I thought it might be.
I simply ran a screwdriver through the lock mechanism on the door to "close" the latching mechanism. Worked a treat and turned off all interior lights (eventually, waiting for the convenience feature).
Just be sure that when you "open" the latch again that you run the screwdriver the other way through the mechanism to release the safety latch.

Same procedure works on the boot (trunk) lid
(don't be fooled by the spring loaded buttons (x2) either side of the boot latch, they lift the boot off the lock when the remote is used to unlock it)


...As it turned out, I only have a 0.22 amp constant drain on my battery, which I think falls into an acceptable load - by my calculations, with a 100Ah battery, that should give 18 days standby time.
So I fitted a new battery!