Mister Bally

Dealer only sells the cable with cable housing, black box, crimped on Tee and crimped on "cylinder" for the release latch.

PAC

After viewing the nightmare some have gone thru with the cable breaking, I decided to install a secondary release cable which attaches in the existing cable union box and then runs into the upper wheel well to a pull piece. It was fairly easy to do. Now I can pop the hood by simply pulling firmly on the cable end inside the wheel well instead of using the pull handle under the dash...although the handle still works exactly as designed. So I guess the engine compartment isn't as secure, but you'd have to know that the release is also in the wheel well to open the hood. I used a bicycle shifter or brake cable, a small steel crimp ring, a small stainless nut and fender washer....that's it! I cut a small slot with a hacksaw into the top and bottom of the small metal union piece. This allows the new steel cable to wrap around the union piece and fit firmly into the slot allowing for free movement of the entire mechanism. I put a section of the bike cable from the union box about 12" over to the top of the fender well with a small hole thru it into the wheel well. Installed the cable and crimped firmly, it fits inside the inner tension/return spring allowing the original cable to work independently. If you've had it apart, you'll know exactly what I did!

Sci-fi_Wasabi

That is an awesome idea (secondary cable).
I posted a DIY for the full cable replacement with pics here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...4#post24545854
the thread is titled "Hood latch cable snap, how to route to footwell?"
Mister Ballys instructions were really helpful.

JohnnyJ A6Q

PAC,
Very nice on the backup cable !

ColoradoRS4

I recently had a customer come in with the same problem. Hood would only unlatch at the passenger side. I pulled the wheel liner and got to the cables. They are very easy to get to with LONG snap on pliers. I pulled both of the cables. The passenger side cable would pull about an inch out of the cable sheath. The drivers side however, when you pulled the cable, the cable wouldn't move at all. You could pull as hard as you wanted and nothing would happen, no movement from the cable at all. Long story short. Tried soaking everything in penetrant oil, tried reaching the latch with picks, cut the coolant expansion tank out to create more room. The latch on the 2006 A8 is located within the lock Carrier (what holds the radiator). You CANNOT access the latch by any means from inside the engine bay.... I ended up using my reciprocating saw and the longest blade I had (about 12 inches). I cut the hook that is located on the hood. With using a lot of care, there was only a few scratches once completed. Once I opened the hood, I found that the cable had slipped out of the latch assembly. *I could have pulled on the cables all day with no success (which I did). If your cable does not move once youve accessed it at the junction box, do not waste time trying to keep pulling it. either the cable is broke or disconnected. Tape the edges of the hood with multiple layers of tape and carefully cut the hook on the hood. You'll have to pry the hood open a little bit to have enough space to not damage the paint. Good luck!

JNA

Help? We followed the procedure. Lock air suspension. Jack up car. Remove wheel. Place jack stand. Remove inner fender liner. Remove diagonal brace. Carefully move wiring bundle for better access. Locate junction box (you weren't kidding about the need for small hands!). Open junction box. Isolate cables. Hood release actuates the passenger side latch but not the driver side. Manually pulling on the passenger side cable releases passenger side latch. Pulling on the driver side cable does nothing. No movement what so ever.

What method will my local Audi dealer use to get the hood open and can anyone estimate the cost.

This is the kind of penny ante bull**** that is driving me away from Audi. This was a $100k+ car when new and its grounded cause I can't open the flipping hood!

I will be calling Audi corporate on Monday to pitch a fit. It's worked in the past (transmission replaced at no cost at 65k miles on my 2003 A6 2.7T, that was a great car).

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

My thanks in advance.

Jim

mishar

Press down drivers side hood in the latch area and pool the cable harder.

JNA

We tried that as well. Also shot some silicone spray on top of the latch assembly hoping it would loosen things up. Nothing.

JNA

Pulled so hard the ball on the end of the cable came off. I'm really stumped. Particularly when it comes to "what will the dealer do" that we haven't.

JNA

Realized I may have sprayed silicone on the pin surrounded by a spring. Wish I had a shop manual.