Mr_Funky

I will just write down how I got it fixed, I didn´t take any pictures unfortunately but I will try a simple instruction in case someone else got this fault – I am from Sweden so you must excuse if I use some strange words...

1, I Removed the wheel and the plastic that covered the xenon headlight etc.
2, I tried to reach the small black plastic box just above the xenon headlight, it was barely possible.
3, I was able to pull the whole box with pliers, and the hood opened.
4, I didn’t replace the complete wire, I was able to repair the broken one but I guess that a new wire is the best solution!

K9COP

Sweden? What a pretty country. Glad you got it fixed, and thanks for the extra info. Anything else you need, let us know. The only strange word you used is 'wheel', they're called 'rims' dear boy....

K9

p.s. you can send any Swedish ladies with Audi troubles our way too!

p.p.s Your English is wayyyy better than many on here, especially those D4 guys with their fancy rims.....

hanilanzi

Mishar,
do you know what is the part number for number 1 on the picture.
my drivers side broke and now the hood won't close all the way
down on that side and need to replace it.

thank you
hani

mishar

4E0 823 509 C

hanilanzi

Sweet. Thank you!!

Mister Bally

Well, it happend on my '04 yesterday. Pulled the handle and it had zero resistance. This indicates the cable between the handle & black cable junction box is broken.

I really studied the cable routing when I did the timing belt a few months ago in case this day came. Thank goodness it was at home as I had just returned from a little 450 mile road trip the day before.

Required strong wood stick about 3' (1M) in length. I used a refrigeration service persons condensor brush as shown in the first photo.

Drill a hole (the brushes already have a hole for hanging purposes) and add a 1 1/2" (okay, for you Metric fans, 2 CM long is close enough) long 8-32 machine screw and secure it with a nut & washers. Probably a 5 or 6 MM size if you think Metric. See photo 2.

After removing the fender inner cover on the Driver's side along with the support bar for the fender that also secures the Bosch Hydraulic ABS, reach up and get the black cable juction box out of the channel it is buried in. This is above and just past the headlight business end.

Route the "tool" so you can place the exposed threads of the machine screw between the two "output" cables on the black box. As you look at photo 3, the headlight is on the left of the wood stick and the power steering mineral fluid tank is on the right(hidden) but you can see the coolant expansion tank. Once you have the tool in place; pull like hell and the hood will unlatch.

I opened the black box and noted that the end of the cable that goes to the release lever pulled out of the "tee" that grabs onto the two individual latch cables.

New cable on order, will have fun with that tomorrow.

Sci-fi_Wasabi

Mister Bally, my hood latch cable also separated at the T in the little box. How did you go about routing your new cable to the footwell. I can see where it goes into the firewall, but beyond that, I have no idea how much of the dash I need to pull apart to get it down to the pull lever. Could you help describe this, or send some pics of what to take off in the footwell/dash. Thanks

(link to my thread and pics on the subject)
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2862199

Mister Bally

You should remove the windshield wiper motor/linkage assembly. The driver knee airbag needs to be removed which means the "clay-like" dash trim piece comes off by the coin tray, ESP button etc. Then you can unbolt the airbag. I leave mine connected but the headlight switch nneds to come out. All described in the Bentley manual if you don't know how to do. Once the airbag is removed and laying on the floor, you can remove the relase handle unit. Leave the stranded cable intact and do not pull it through the firewall. Remove the black cable sleeve & firewall grommet but let the stranded cable remain through the firewall.

Take the new cable from engine side and using good tape, wrap & secure the old stranded cable arounf the release lever (cable, not black box) end. Now gently pull the new cable into the vehicle cabin once in, remove the tape and secure the cable end to the release lever. Then rerinstall the release handle. The new grommet can be pressed in place into the firewall hole with two large, long screwdrivers or pieces of wood like lattice. Connect the black box cable end to the two latch cables and test it several times. If good, replace the airbag & dash panel and then the wiper assembly.

Sorry, I did not take any photos. The Bently or Elsa manual is really handy for these cars. I cannot do screen shots ince my manual is on a PC with old Windows that does not have screen capture.

Petahs

Lucky you mine snapped last week and it was one of the latches that seized that caused the cable to snap thank god for the warranty $495 later fixed.

Sci-fi_Wasabi

Mister Bally, Thanks!... and ugh... that is more involved than I expected. I wish there was a way to just run a new wire through the existing piping and crimp the part at the end onto it... so much easier.