Rear passenger door won't unlock (86 5000CStq)
#1
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Rear passenger door won't unlock (86 5000CStq)
The latest in a series of problems . . . can't unlock/open the passenger side rear door.
Kid's friend broke the mechanical actuator (probably the little plastic linkage on the lock actuating rod) last time she was visiting, now it looks like the central (vacuum?) lock system isn't working for that door.
I've looked at the Bentley manual, but it doesn't offer much--(also, it starts with the 1987 model year, so not sure if the layout shown is accurate).
I'm thinking I will need to pull the rear seat bottom and find the vacuum hose for that door, but then what? Do I pressurize it to unlock, or pull a vacuum on it?
Also, if it turns out that the activator or the vacuum hose is the problem, then what? Or do I cross that particular bridge when I come to it . . .
Any/all insights, BTDTs, etc. are greatly appreciated!
All the best,
Steve A-
Kid's friend broke the mechanical actuator (probably the little plastic linkage on the lock actuating rod) last time she was visiting, now it looks like the central (vacuum?) lock system isn't working for that door.
I've looked at the Bentley manual, but it doesn't offer much--(also, it starts with the 1987 model year, so not sure if the layout shown is accurate).
I'm thinking I will need to pull the rear seat bottom and find the vacuum hose for that door, but then what? Do I pressurize it to unlock, or pull a vacuum on it?
Also, if it turns out that the activator or the vacuum hose is the problem, then what? Or do I cross that particular bridge when I come to it . . .
Any/all insights, BTDTs, etc. are greatly appreciated!
All the best,
Steve A-
#2
It's been a while since I've worked on the lock system, but, from memory:
Under the seat, on the side opposite the battery, buried in mouse nest insulation, is the vacuum pump. It's got lines to all four doors. The actuators are compatible from side to side, I think. not sure about front to back.
Anyway, if there is a (large, at least) leak, the pump will run a long time before timing out, so you should notice. I think vacuum is lock, and pressure is unlock.
I'd say if the pump isn't running a long time, it's probably mechanical, pop the door panel and see what the score is. I think the manual stick and the actuator pull on the same brittle plastic, so the whole deal might have shattered.
guess the way the stick broke could have caused the mechanism to jam - the vacuum units are pretty wussy, so that could be enough to prevent it from working
Under the seat, on the side opposite the battery, buried in mouse nest insulation, is the vacuum pump. It's got lines to all four doors. The actuators are compatible from side to side, I think. not sure about front to back.
Anyway, if there is a (large, at least) leak, the pump will run a long time before timing out, so you should notice. I think vacuum is lock, and pressure is unlock.
I'd say if the pump isn't running a long time, it's probably mechanical, pop the door panel and see what the score is. I think the manual stick and the actuator pull on the same brittle plastic, so the whole deal might have shattered.
guess the way the stick broke could have caused the mechanism to jam - the vacuum units are pretty wussy, so that could be enough to prevent it from working
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Hi!
Thanks for the quick reply . . . I'll see if I can use a small pump to get the unit to unlock. I hope it works 'cuz I can't see how to pop the inner panel if the door is locked shut . . . .
Steve A-
Thanks for the quick reply . . . I'll see if I can use a small pump to get the unit to unlock. I hope it works 'cuz I can't see how to pop the inner panel if the door is locked shut . . . .
Steve A-
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I've found that at least on the V8, small bike pumps can't unlock the doors(at least from the trunk).....set a compressor as low as it goes and a quick puff, and voila. I've even used a hose connected to a spare tire, just don't give it 120psi, you'll blow all the hoses off. You can pressurize the system, and hear a big leak, but my guess is when you take the door panel off, you'll see the problem. Does the lock **** move up and down and do nothing, or is it frozen?
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I've found that at least on the V8, small bike pumps can't unlock the doors(at least from the trunk).....set a compressor as low as it goes and a quick puff, and voila. I've even used a hose connected to a spare tire, just don't give it 120psi, you'll blow all the hoses off. You can pressurize the system, and hear a big leak, but my guess is when you take the door panel off, you'll see the problem. Does the lock **** move up and down and do nothing, or is it frozen?
Thanks again,
Steve A-
Last edited by anderssj; 10-25-2013 at 04:47 PM.
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Sorry for the delay--lots going on.
Thanks for the kind offer. Still haven't gotten the door open. Must be a leak on pressurizing the system as the pump runs a long time on the unlock side.
WRT the little brittle pieces of plastic, are you talking about the link between the two door lock actuating rods? If so, I could probably use a few. How would you like me to pay for shipping?
Thanks again,
Steve A-
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SUCCESS!
I finally had a couple of hours and was able to get the door open without breaking anything. I removed the window scraper (stainless and rubber piece at the top of the outer panel) and rolled down the window, which allowed me to snake a bent coat hanger in and pull up on the rod from the lock actuator.
The problem was that the plastic link in the center of the long lock rod had broken, so the manual **** was inop. The unlock side of the actuator in that door was also bad. For now I have the lock rod held together with a couple of zip ties and the vacuum line to the actuator disconnected and plugged.
I also discovered a leak in the trunk's lock actuator, so I disconnected and plugged the line to that one too. It's amazing how quickly the remaining actuators work now . . . .
While I have both rear doors apart, I'll go ahead and replace the window motor/cable on the rear driver's side door, and the weather strip on both rear doors (the "while I'm in there" syndrome strikes again). Then finish swapping in the driver's sport seat, then re-doing the sunroof, then the hydraulic lines and pump, then, and then, and then, etc.
Thanks again to all the folks here for their help and support in keeping this old car running!
Steve A-
I finally had a couple of hours and was able to get the door open without breaking anything. I removed the window scraper (stainless and rubber piece at the top of the outer panel) and rolled down the window, which allowed me to snake a bent coat hanger in and pull up on the rod from the lock actuator.
The problem was that the plastic link in the center of the long lock rod had broken, so the manual **** was inop. The unlock side of the actuator in that door was also bad. For now I have the lock rod held together with a couple of zip ties and the vacuum line to the actuator disconnected and plugged.
I also discovered a leak in the trunk's lock actuator, so I disconnected and plugged the line to that one too. It's amazing how quickly the remaining actuators work now . . . .
While I have both rear doors apart, I'll go ahead and replace the window motor/cable on the rear driver's side door, and the weather strip on both rear doors (the "while I'm in there" syndrome strikes again). Then finish swapping in the driver's sport seat, then re-doing the sunroof, then the hydraulic lines and pump, then, and then, and then, etc.
Thanks again to all the folks here for their help and support in keeping this old car running!
Steve A-
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